How to Repair a Leaking Tap in Tadley

Published September 2026 | Leaking Tap Repair Guide

This guide walks you through diagnosing and repairing a dripping or leaking tap yourself, covering the most common causes and fixes for both traditional and modern tap types. It's written for homeowners in Tadley with basic DIY confidence who want to sort the problem without calling a plumber if they don't need to.

Before you start - safety first

The first thing you need to do before touching any part of the tap is isolate the water supply. In most Tadley homes, you'll find an isolation valve directly on the supply pipes beneath the sink - it's a small brass fitting with a slot in it. Turn the slot so it runs perpendicular to the pipe and the water is off. If there's no isolation valve fitted, you'll need to use the main stopcock, which is typically found under the kitchen sink or close to where the supply pipe enters the house.

Once you've isolated the supply, open the tap fully and let it run until the pipes are drained. Keep a towel and a small bucket nearby to catch drips. Work on a dry surface - wet floors and wet hands when you're using tools are a slip risk you don't need.

It's also worth locating your stopcock now if you don't already know where it is. Many older properties in Hampshire have stopcocks that haven't been turned in years and can seize. If yours won't budge, don't force it - call a plumber to free it off before you attempt any tap work.

What you will need

Getting your tools and parts together before you start saves a lot of frustration mid-job. Here's what to have ready.

Tools:

• Adjustable spanner
• Flat-head screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver
• Long-nose pliers
• Small cloth or old towel
• Small bucket or bowl
• Penetrating oil (optional, but useful on older fittings)

Materials:

• Replacement rubber washers (various sizes - available from hardware shops in Tadley for under 1 pound each, or in assortment packs for around 3 to 5 pounds)
• O-rings (for mixer taps or where the leak is around the base of the handle)
• Ceramic disc cartridge if your tap uses one - typically costs between 5 and 20 pounds depending on tap brand and model
• PTFE tape
• Silicone grease (plumber's grease)

Time estimate: Allow between 30 minutes and 1.5 hours. Older taps with corroded fittings or difficult access take longer. If you've never done this before, give yourself a full afternoon so you're not rushing.

A note on tap types: The repair method varies depending on what you've got. Traditional compression taps have separate hot and cold handles that you tighten to stop the flow - these almost always use rubber washers. Ceramic disc taps are quarter-turn handles and use a ceramic cartridge instead. Mixer taps can be either type. Identify yours before buying parts, because the wrong component is a wasted trip.

Step-by-step instructions

Step 1 - Identify where the leak is coming from

Before you dismantle anything, work out exactly where water is escaping. A drip from the spout when the tap is turned off points to a failed washer or ceramic disc. A leak around the base of the handle or the tap body is more likely an O-ring or packing issue. These need different fixes, so getting this right saves you dismantling the wrong thing.

If you're not sure, turn the water back on briefly and watch carefully. Then isolate the supply again before proceeding.

Step 2 - Remove the tap handle

Look for a small decorative cap on the top of the handle - usually marked H or C, or with a red or blue dot. This is typically clipped in and lifts off easily with a flat-head screwdriver. Underneath, you'll find a retaining screw. Remove it and lift the handle straight up and off the spindle.

If the handle is stiff from limescale or hasn't been touched in years, wrap a cloth around it and wiggle gently from side to side while pulling upward. Don't lever or force it - cracking the handle means an extra expense you don't need. A few minutes of patience here is worth it.

Step 3 - Remove the headgear or cartridge housing

With the handle off, you'll see a hexagonal nut - the packing nut or headgear on a traditional tap, or the cartridge housing on a ceramic disc tap. Use your adjustable spanner to turn this anticlockwise. Wrap the jaws with a cloth or insulating tape first if you want to protect chrome finishes.

On older Hampshire properties, these nuts can be corroded in place. If it won't move, apply a small amount of penetrating oil around the base and give it 10 to 15 minutes to work before trying again. Don't use excessive force - you can crack the tap body on older fittings.

Step 4 - Remove and inspect the old washer or cartridge

For a traditional compression tap, the rubber washer sits at the base of the headgear, held in place by a small brass nut. Remove the nut with long-nose pliers, pull off the old washer, and have a look at the condition of both the washer and the brass seat it presses against inside the tap body. A washer that's cracked, flattened, or misshapen is your culprit.

For a ceramic disc tap, the cartridge pulls straight out of the tap body once the housing is removed. Take the old cartridge with you when buying a replacement - common brands used in UK homes include Bristan, Grohe, and Pegler, and cartridges are model-specific. A correct match matters.

If you're dealing with a leak around the handle rather than the spout, look for the O-ring sitting in a groove on the spindle body. This is a rubber ring that seals the handle assembly. Lever the old one off carefully with a small screwdriver, then compare it for size before buying a replacement.

Step 5 - Fit the replacement component

Press the new washer firmly onto its seat. Refit the brass retaining nut and tighten it until snug - a quarter turn past finger-tight is enough. Overtightening deforms the washer immediately and creates the same problem you just fixed.

For a ceramic disc cartridge, slide the replacement in the same orientation as the one you removed. There's usually a tab or keyway that aligns with a slot in the tap body - it should sit flush and feel secure when it's correctly seated. If it's resisting, rotate it slightly until it drops into position.

Apply a thin smear of silicone grease to any rubber O-rings before you reassemble. It extends the life of the seal and makes the next repair easier when the time comes.

Step 6 - Reassemble the tap

Refit the headgear or cartridge housing and tighten firmly with the spanner - firm, not brutal. Replace the handle, tighten the retaining screw, and press the decorative cap back into place. Make sure everything is seated correctly before you turn the water back on.

Step 7 - Test and check

Turn your water supply back on slowly to let pressure build gradually. Watch the tap and the pipework underneath for any sign of leaks. Turn the tap on and off several times. If the drip has stopped and there's no seepage around the body or handle, the job's done.

If you're using the Voltrade GoFIX diagnostic tool, log the repair here - it records what was replaced and can flag when components are likely to need attention again, which is useful for older taps that have been patched more than once.

What to do if this does not fix it

If the tap is still dripping after you've replaced the washer or cartridge, the tap seat is the next thing to investigate. The seat is the internal brass surface the washer presses against to stop the flow. Over years of use, it can become pitted, scored, or uneven, and no washer will seal properly against a damaged seat regardless of how new it is.

A tap reseating tool - sometimes called a tap reseater or cutter - is available from plumbers merchants for around 15 to 30 pounds. It screws into the tap body and grinds the seat back to a smooth, flat finish. It takes a bit of technique but it's achievable for a careful DIYer.

If the tap is more than 15 years old, parts are hard to source, or it's had multiple repairs already, replacement is often the more sensible route. A decent replacement tap from a brand like Bristan, Grohe, or Pegler typically costs between 40 and 150 pounds depending on style and specification. Fitting it yourself is possible, but involves disconnecting and reconnecting supply pipes, which carries more risk if connections aren't made correctly.

When to stop and call a professional

There are situations where the right call is putting the tools down and getting a qualified plumber in. Our engineers would always rather attend a job that needs a professional than see a homeowner turn a minor drip into a significant water leak.

• The leak is from the pipework, not the tap itself. If water is escaping from a joint, a compression fitting, or the pipe body, that needs proper diagnosis. Don't attempt pipe repairs without knowing what you're dealing with - particularly in older Tadley homes where older fitting types may be present.
• You can't isolate the water supply. If the stopcock has seized or you can't locate it, don't proceed with any plumbing work. Get the stopcock assessed first.
• The leak gets worse when you start dismantling. If loosening a fitting causes more water to escape, tighten everything back up immediately and call a plumber.
• The tap body is visibly corroded or cracked. No washer or cartridge change fixes a structurally compromised tap. It needs replacing.
• You're not confident. That's a completely reasonable place to be. A plumber attending a Tadley home to fix a leaking tap typically charges between 60 and 130 pounds including parts. That's a modest cost compared to water damage from a repair that's gone wrong.

Hampshire's older housing stock in particular - Victorian and Edwardian terraces, post-war semis with original pipework - often holds surprises once you start opening things up. If the job doesn't look like what you expected when you got into it, stopping and calling someone experienced is the right move.

Questions about this process

How do I know what size washer I need for my tap?

The most reliable method is to remove the old washer first and take it with you to match it in person at a hardware shop or plumbers merchant. Washers are most commonly 12mm, 15mm, or 19mm in diameter, but sizes vary by tap manufacturer and age. Assortment packs covering the common sizes are widely available in Tadley for around 3 to 5 pounds and save you the frustration of buying the wrong size on a single purchase.

Can a dripping tap cause damage to my home?

Yes, it can - and the damage often builds slowly enough that homeowners don't notice until it's become a bigger problem. Persistent moisture under a kitchen or bathroom sink can rot cabinet floors, encourage mould growth behind units, and in some cases work its way into floorboards or walls. In many Hampshire homes with timber joinery and older cabinetry, even a slow drip left unaddressed for several months can result in repair costs far exceeding what it would have cost to fix the tap early.

Is it better to repair a leaking tap or replace it completely?

It depends on the tap's age, condition, and whether parts are readily available. Our engineers generally recommend repair for taps under 10 years old where the body is in good condition. For taps significantly older than that, where the seat is worn, the body is showing corrosion, or it's been repaired several times already, replacement tends to be better value in the long run. A quality replacement tap - brands like Bristan or Grohe hold up well in everyday use - costs between 40 and 150 pounds, and fitting is a one-off job rather than a recurring one.