Leaking Tap Repair Guide for Glastonbury Homeowners

Published July 2026 | Leaking Tap Repair Guide

How Long Should a Tap Last and What Affects That

Taps are one of those fixtures that homeowners rarely think about until something goes wrong. A slow drip from the kitchen mixer or a bathroom basin tap that won't fully close might seem minor, but left alone, a single dripping tap can waste thousands of litres of water per year and quietly push up your water bills.

How long a tap actually lasts comes down to a handful of factors. The quality of the original fitting matters a great deal. A solid brass body with ceramic disc cartridges will outlast a cheap chrome-plated zinc alloy tap by a significant margin. Most mid-range taps sold in UK plumbers' merchants and trade suppliers are built to last around 15 years under normal use. Budget taps from the lower end of the DIY shed range can start failing within five years.

Water quality is the other major variable. Somerset sits in a mixed water hardness zone - Glastonbury and the surrounding areas are served by water that tends toward the moderately hard end of the scale. Over time, limescale builds up inside cartridges, around washers, and on seating surfaces, accelerating wear. Homes that have experienced persistent tap problems often find that limescale is at least part of the story, even if the initial symptom looks like a failing washer.

The type of tap also affects longevity. Traditional pillar taps with rubber washers and brass seats can be rebuilt indefinitely with cheap parts - a new washer costs pennies and takes 20 minutes to fit. Modern monobloc mixer taps with ceramic cartridges are more reliable day to day but when they do fail, the cartridge replacement cost is higher, and some brands use proprietary parts that take effort to source.

Tap Types and Their Typical Lifespans

Traditional compression taps (washers and jumper valves) commonly last 20 years or more because individual parts are cheap and widely available. Ceramic disc taps typically give 10 to 15 years before cartridge replacement becomes necessary. Thermostatic mixer taps and more complex fitting systems tend to have more components that can fail, so factor in potential cartridge or valve body replacement every 8 to 12 years. Regardless of type, the quality of the original installation plays a large role - taps that were fitted correctly, with properly jointed supply pipes and no stress on the body, simply last longer.

The Maintenance That Actually Makes a Difference

Most tap maintenance happens reactively - the drip starts and then someone calls a plumber. The better approach is to do a small amount of preventative work that keeps the internals in good condition and catches problems before they become urgent.

Our engineers regularly see taps in Glastonbury properties that have been dripping for months before anyone books a repair. By that point, the water has often scored the tap seat, turning what would have been a five-minute washer replacement into a job that needs re-seating or a full cartridge swap.

Here is what actually makes a practical difference:

1. Don't overtighten taps. This is the single most common cause of premature washer failure. Turning a tap off forcefully compresses the rubber washer hard into the seat repeatedly, wearing it out much faster. Turn taps off firmly but not with force.
2. Descale regularly in hard water areas. Soak aerators and spout filters in white vinegar every three to four months. These small mesh filters trap limescale and reduce flow pressure, which causes homeowners to turn taps harder to compensate - which leads back to washer wear.
3. Check under-sink pipework every six months. Flex hoses connecting taps to the mains supply are a common failure point and most people never look at them. Look for weeping joints, corrosion on fittings, and any kinks in the braided hose. Flex hoses typically have a service life of around 10 years.
4. Lubricate ceramic cartridges occasionally. A small amount of plumber's silicone grease on the cartridge O-rings during a repair extends service life and reduces stiffness. This is something a plumber will do as a matter of course during a repair visit, but it is worth requesting specifically if you are having any tap work done.
5. Address drips immediately. A tap that is dripping is already failing. The longer it runs, the more damage occurs to the seat, the washer, or the cartridge. What would be a 30 to 50 pound repair on day one can become a 100 to 150 pound job three months later.

Warning Signs Your Tap Is Reaching End of Life

A leaking tap does not always mean the tap needs replacing - in many cases a repair is perfectly viable. But there are signs that tell an experienced plumber whether a repair makes sense or whether the fitting has simply reached the end of its useful life.

Watch for these indicators:

• Dripping from the spout when the tap is closed. This is the classic sign of a failed washer or worn ceramic cartridge. On its own, this is usually repairable.
• Weeping around the base of the spout or handle. This points to failed O-rings. Again, usually repairable, but if the tap body shows corrosion or pitting around the O-ring seats, replacement may be more sensible.
• Stiff or difficult to operate. On older taps, this often means limescale buildup inside the cartridge or on the thread. On newer taps, it can indicate a cartridge that is beginning to fail.
• Visible corrosion on the body. Chrome plating that has blistered or pitted, or brass bodies showing green patina and surface corrosion, suggests the tap is past its best.
• Repeated failures in a short period. If you have replaced a washer or cartridge twice within 18 months and the tap is leaking again, the tap seat is likely damaged and the fitting needs more than another basic repair.
• Very low flow rate that does not improve after descaling. This can indicate internal corrosion or collapse of the internal structure, which is not economically repairable.

Our Voltrade GoFIX diagnostic tool can help homeowners log symptoms and get an assessment before booking an engineer. It is particularly useful for identifying whether a problem is isolated to the tap itself or whether there is something in the supply pipework contributing to the issue - a pressure imbalance, for instance, can cause taps to drip even after repair if it is not addressed.

Repair vs Replace - The Honest Calculation

The repair versus replace question comes up on almost every tap job. Here is how to think about it without overcomplicating it.

A washer replacement on a traditional pillar tap is typically priced between 50 and 80 pounds including labour and parts. A ceramic cartridge swap on a mixer tap commonly runs between 80 and 150 pounds depending on the cartridge itself - some branded cartridges for premium mixer taps (Grohe, Hansgrohe, Bristan) cost significantly more to source than generic replacements. Fitting a new replacement tap in a standard bathroom basin configuration, where the supply pipework is already in place, typically costs between 120 and 220 pounds for supply, labour, and a decent quality fitting.

The calculation becomes clearer when you weigh these figures against each other:

1. If the tap is less than five years old, repair is almost always the right call unless there is physical damage to the body.
2. If the tap is between five and ten years old and this is the first problem, repair makes sense. Keep the receipt - if the same tap fails again within two years, the next decision should lean toward replacement.
3. If the tap is over ten years old and you have already had one repair, replacement is often the more economical choice over a five-year horizon. You will spend less in total than continually repairing an ageing fitting.
4. If the tap body is corroded, the seat is scored beyond re-seating, or proprietary parts are no longer available, replacement is the only practical option regardless of age.

One point that is worth mentioning for Glastonbury properties in particular - homes with older pipework and traditional fittings sometimes have taps that are soldered or otherwise fixed in ways that make removal more involved than a standard swap. If your property was built before the 1970s and has not been replumbed since, budget for a slightly higher labour allowance when replacing rather than repairing.

Annual Service - What It Should Include

Most homeowners do not think about tap servicing as a distinct task, but building it into an annual property check makes sense, particularly in Somerset homes where water quality and older pipework can accelerate wear.

A basic annual tap check should include the following:

• Checking all tap bodies for weeping joints, O-ring failure, or drips under pressure
• Removing and cleaning aerators and spout filters
• Checking flex hoses under sinks and basins for age, kinking, or weeping at fittings
• Testing isolator valves under sinks to confirm they operate - isolators that seize are a common problem on older installations and can make future repairs significantly harder
• Checking that tap handles and bodies are secure and not rocking or loose on their mounting
• Lubricating any accessible O-rings or cartridges with silicone grease where appropriate
• Assessing tap age and condition to flag anything that may need replacement within the next 12 to 24 months

This kind of check takes an experienced plumber around 45 minutes to an hour for a typical three-bedroom home. The cost is modest compared to what you would spend on emergency call-outs if a flex hose fails without warning or a seized isolator prevents you from shutting off a dripping tap quickly. Many Glastonbury homeowners fold this into a broader annual plumbing inspection that also covers stop taps, cylinder checks, and visible pipework - it is a much more efficient use of a plumber's time and your budget.

Simple Habits That Extend the Life by Years

A lot of tap longevity comes down to how the taps are used day to day rather than anything technical. These habits cost nothing and make a genuine difference to how long your fittings last.

• Turn taps off gently. This sounds obvious but it is probably the single most impactful change most households could make. Taps do not need to be cranked shut to stop the water - firm and controlled is enough.
• Use a kettle rather than running hot taps for boiling water. Running hot water for extended periods increases thermal cycling stress on cartridges and O-rings over time.
• Know where your stop tap is and test it every year. If something goes wrong with a tap and you cannot shut off the supply quickly, what might have been a minor drip becomes a flooding situation. In older Somerset properties, the stop tap is sometimes in an awkward location and may not have been operated for years - test it annually.
• Do not hang items from tap spouts or use them as handles. Mixer taps in kitchens, in particular, are frequently used as a grab handle when reaching into the sink. The leverage this puts on the cartridge is significant and shortens its life.
• Address limescale proactively. If you are in a hard water area, a small cartridge water softener fitted to the kitchen cold supply is a modest investment that significantly reduces scale buildup on internal components. It is not a necessity, but it does extend the life of cartridges noticeably.
• Check for drips after any plumbing work. If a plumber has worked on your supply pipework, check all taps in the affected zone over the following few days. Pressure fluctuations during the work can sometimes dislodge debris or disturb aging seals.

Your Tap Maintenance Questions Answered

How much does it typically cost to fix a dripping tap in the UK?

Most dripping tap repairs in the UK cost between 50 and 150 pounds, depending on the type of tap and the fault. A straightforward washer replacement on a traditional pillar tap commonly falls at the lower end of that range. A ceramic cartridge swap on a modern mixer tap typically costs more due to part prices. Emergency call-outs outside normal working hours will add a premium, so it is worth booking during regular hours where possible.

Can I repair a leaking tap myself or should I always call a plumber?

Replacing a washer on a traditional compression tap is within the ability of a reasonably practical homeowner - the main requirement is isolating the supply correctly and having the right washer size. Ceramic cartridge replacement is more involved and the risk of damaging the tap body or getting the wrong cartridge is higher. For any tap where you cannot confidently isolate the supply, or where the fault is unclear, it is worth getting a plumber in rather than risking a more expensive problem.

Why does my tap keep dripping even after I have replaced the washer?

If a tap drips again shortly after a washer replacement, the most common cause is a damaged tap seat. The rubber washer presses against a brass seat to form a seal, and if that seat is scored or pitted, no washer will create a reliable seal for long. A plumber can re-seat the tap using a tap reseating tool, which restores the seat surface. This is a common issue in Glastonbury and Somerset homes with older fittings and harder water, where the seat degrades faster than it would in a softer water area.

How do I know if my water pressure is too high and damaging my taps?

Normal household water pressure in the UK typically sits between 1 and 3 bar. Pressure above 3 bar puts additional strain on tap cartridges, washers, and O-rings, shortening their service life and making leaks more likely. Signs of high pressure include taps that bang or hammer when you close them, flex hoses that feel very firm under pressure, and repeated cartridge failures. A plumber can test your incoming pressure with a gauge in a few minutes, and a pressure-reducing valve can be fitted if it is running too high - typically costing between 100 and 200 pounds installed.