How to Fix a Leaking Tap in Exeter - A Complete Repair Guide

Published July 2026 | Leaking Tap Repair

This guide covers how to diagnose and fix a dripping or leaking tap yourself, from identifying your tap type to sourcing the right parts and putting everything back together correctly. It's written for homeowners in Exeter and across Devon who want to attempt the repair themselves and understand exactly what the job involves before deciding whether to call a plumber.

Before You Start - Safety First

Before you touch a single fitting, you need to know where your water supply can be isolated. Most modern taps have isolation valves built into the supply pipes underneath the sink or basin - these are small inline valves with a flat-head screw slot. When the slot sits in line with the pipe, water flows through. Turn it 90 degrees and the supply is cut off to that tap only.

If your property has no isolation valves, or if they are seized solid (common in older Devon properties), you will need to turn off the water at the stopcock. This is usually found under the kitchen sink or in a utility cupboard. Turn it clockwise until it stops, then open a cold tap downstairs to confirm the pressure has dropped before you start dismantling anything.

A few practical points before you begin. Work in good light - under-sink spaces are cramped and harder to navigate than they appear in tutorial videos. Lay down towels or a tray to catch residual water in the pipe. And take a photo of the tap assembly before removing anything, so you have a reference when reassembling. Our engineers at Voltrade see a lot of DIY tap jobs that went wrong because parts were put back in the wrong order, and it costs more to fix a second time than it would have done to call someone out first.

What You Will Need

Having the right tools and parts ready before you start saves a frustrating mid-job trip to the hardware shop. Here is what to gather:

Tools:

• Adjustable spanner or a set of open-ended spanners
• Flat-head screwdriver and cross-head screwdriver
• Allen key set (3mm and 4mm cover most modern taps)
• Gripping pliers for any seized fittings
• PTFE tape
• Silicone or plumber's grease
• Penetrating oil such as WD-40
• Torch or headtorch
• Bucket and cloths

Materials depend on your tap type, which is covered in Step 1. Typically you will need one of the following:

• Replacement rubber washers - sold in assorted packs for around 2 to 4 pounds
• O-ring kit - typically 2 to 5 pounds
• Ceramic disc cartridge - commonly 8 to 20 pounds depending on tap brand and model

Time estimate: Allow 30 to 60 minutes for a compression washer replacement if you are doing it for the first time. A ceramic cartridge swap on a single-lever mixer tap takes similar time, with the added step of identifying the correct cartridge before you can order it. Most plumbers' merchants in Exeter stock a reasonable range of common cartridges, so if you can identify your tap brand you may be able to get parts the same day.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1 - Identify Your Tap Type

The repair method depends entirely on what kind of tap you have. There are two main types found in most UK homes.

Compression taps are the traditional style, found widely in older properties across Devon. They have separate hot and cold handles that you rotate multiple times to open and close. These use a rubber washer that is compressed against a valve seat inside the tap body to stop water flow. When the washer wears out, the tap drips - and replacing it is the fix.

Ceramic disc taps, including most modern single-lever mixer taps, use a ceramic cartridge inside. They require only a quarter turn to operate and feel noticeably smoother than compression taps. When they leak, it is usually because the ceramic disc itself has cracked or worn, or because the O-rings around the cartridge body have deteriorated.

If you are not sure which type you have, the Voltrade GoFIX diagnostic tool can help you identify your tap model and likely fault based on where and how it is leaking.

Step 2 - Shut Off the Water Supply

Turn the isolation valve screw 90 degrees so it sits across the pipe rather than along it. If you are working on a bath tap, you may need to use the airing cupboard isolation valve or the main stopcock.

Once isolated, open the tap fully. This releases residual pressure in the pipe and drains any water sitting above the valve. Keep your bucket underneath - there can be more water in the pipework than you expect, particularly in Exeter properties where pipes run through multiple floors before reaching the tap.

Step 3 - Remove the Tap Handle

Look for a decorative cap on the top of the handle - a small plastic or metal disc, often marked with a hot or cold indicator. Prise it off gently with a flat-head screwdriver. Underneath you will find a screw, typically a cross-head or an Allen bolt. Remove it and the handle should lift straight off.

If the handle is stiff due to limescale build-up, do not force it. Apply a small amount of penetrating oil around the base and leave it for 10 minutes before trying again. Forcing a stuck handle can crack the shroud or round off the screw head, making the job more involved than it needs to be.

Step 4 - Remove the Headgear or Cartridge

For compression taps, once the handle is off you will see the headgear - a brass nut that holds the valve mechanism in place. Use your adjustable spanner to turn it anticlockwise. Wrap the jaws in cloth if you want to avoid scratching the chrome. Once removed, the whole valve body comes out, with the rubber washer at the bottom held by a small brass nut.

For ceramic disc mixer taps, the cartridge is typically held in place by a retaining nut or a plastic securing collar. Remove this and the cartridge will pull straight out. Note its orientation carefully before removing it - cartridges are directional and must go back in the same way they came out, or the hot and cold supplies will be reversed.

Step 5 - Replace the Washer, O-Ring, or Ceramic Disc

For compression taps, unscrew the small nut at the base of the headgear and remove the old rubber washer. Take the old washer to a hardware shop to match the size precisely - guessing the size is the single most common reason a DIY tap repair fails. Fit the new washer and tighten the nut firmly but not excessively.

While you have access, inspect the valve seat inside the tap body - the small circular brass ring the washer presses against. If it looks pitted or scored, a valve seat grinder tool (available for around 8 to 12 pounds) can resurface it. Without doing this, a new washer against a damaged seat will wear out far sooner than it should.

For ceramic disc cartridges, compare the old cartridge to a replacement before fitting. Match the height, the number of ports, and the turn direction. Apply a thin film of silicone grease to the new O-rings before fitting - this prevents tearing during reassembly and significantly extends the life of the seal.

Step 6 - Reassemble the Tap

Work in reverse order. Seat the headgear or cartridge back into the tap body, making sure everything lines up correctly. Tighten the retaining nut firmly - enough to form a good seal, but not so tight that you risk cracking the ceramic seating. Refit the handle, tighten the retaining screw, and press the decorative cap back into place.

Use PTFE tape on compression headgear threads if the original showed any sign of weeping around the body rather than from the spout. Wrap it clockwise - in the direction you will be tightening - and use three to four layers.

Step 7 - Turn the Water Back On and Test

Open the isolation valve slowly by turning the slot back in line with the pipe. Do not rush this step. A sudden pressure surge can dislodge parts that are not fully seated. Watch the tap as pressure builds and check under the sink at the same time.

Run the tap for a minute, then close it fully. Is the drip gone? Check the spout and the base of the tap body. If everything stays dry after a few minutes at full pressure, the repair is complete.

What to Do If This Does Not Fix It

If the tap is still dripping after replacing the washer or cartridge, work through these possibilities before calling anyone.

First, check whether the replacement part is the correct size and specification. An undersized washer will not seat properly against the valve, and a cartridge from a different manufacturer may not seal correctly even if it looks nearly identical. Our engineers in Exeter find mismatched parts are one of the most common reasons a first DIY attempt does not hold.

Second, look more carefully at the valve seat. In older taps, particularly those in properties built before the 1990s, the brass valve seat can become scored or corroded. A new washer pressing against a damaged seat will wear out rapidly - sometimes within weeks. A valve seat grinder or a press-in replacement seat (around 3 to 6 pounds) can resolve this.

Third, check where the leak is actually coming from. If water is appearing around the base of the tap body or dripping from under the sink rather than from the spout, the problem is more likely to be a failed O-ring on the tap body, a loose tap tail nut, or a deteriorated flex connector. These are still repairable at home, but may require isolating the full hot or cold supply rather than just the one tap.

If none of these resolve the drip, the tap itself may be at the end of its usable life. Tap bodies corrode internally, and some older designs no longer have compatible replacement parts available. At that point, a full tap replacement is the most practical route forward.

When to Stop and Call a Professional

There are several situations where it makes sense to stop the DIY approach and bring in a plumber. These are not failures - they are the right call for the job in front of you.

Call a plumber if the isolation valve is seized and will not turn. Forcing a seized valve can shear it, which turns a minor dripping tap into an emergency involving the main supply. A plumber can replace the isolation valve and carry out the tap repair at the same time.

Call a plumber if you find corrosion or damage in the supply pipework while doing the repair. Disturbing old copper or plastic pipework can cause soldered joints or compression fittings to fail. It is much better to deal with that proactively than as a water damage emergency.

Call a plumber if the tap is connected to an unvented hot water cylinder or is fed directly off a combination boiler. These systems operate under mains pressure and require a different approach. Our Exeter-based engineers work on these systems regularly across Devon and know how to isolate them safely without affecting the rest of the household's hot water supply.

Call a plumber if the leak is at the wall plate or at the supply connector rather than at the tap itself. That is a pipework job, not a tap repair, and it may involve working under pressure in a confined space.

In Exeter, a plumber's call-out for a simple tap repair typically costs between 60 and 90 pounds per hour, with most jobs completing in under an hour. A full tap replacement including a mid-range replacement tap and labour typically comes to between 150 and 280 pounds, depending on access and the tap you choose.

Questions About This Process

How long should a tap washer or ceramic cartridge last?

Rubber washers in compression taps typically last between five and ten years, though this varies with water hardness. Devon has a mix of soft and moderately hard water depending on the area, and harder water tends to wear washers faster. Ceramic cartridges are generally more durable and can last fifteen or more years with normal use. If you are replacing the same component every couple of years, the underlying cause is usually a damaged valve seat rather than the washer itself deteriorating prematurely.

Can I fix a leaking tap without turning off the mains water supply?

Yes, in most cases. Modern kitchens and bathrooms fitted within the last twenty years typically include isolation valves built into the supply pipes, so you can isolate that one tap without affecting the rest of the house. If your property lacks isolation valves, a plumber can fit them at the same time as the repair - it is a sensible upgrade for any Exeter property where they are currently missing, and typically adds around 20 to 40 pounds to the overall cost of the job.

Is it worth repairing an old tap or should I just replace it?

If the tap is leaking from the spout due to a worn washer or cartridge, repair is almost always worth attempting - the parts are inexpensive and the job is well within DIY reach. But if the tap body is corroded, the chrome is peeling, or you have had to repair it multiple times over a short period, replacement starts to make more financial sense. A good quality replacement tap for a kitchen or bathroom basin typically costs between 40 and 150 pounds for the fitting alone, and a plumber in Exeter can usually carry out the swap in under an hour.