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Leaking Tap Repair Guide for Chichester Homeowners

Published July 2026 | Leaking Tap Repair Guide

A well-maintained tap should last between 15 and 25 years in most UK homes. The internal washers and O-rings that do the hard work typically need attention every 5 to 10 years, depending on water quality and usage.

How Long Should a Tap Last and What Affects That

Taps are one of those fixtures most people never think about until something goes wrong. The good news is that a quality tap installed correctly and maintained properly is genuinely built to last a generation. The bad news is that most taps in UK homes do not receive even basic maintenance, which is why a dripping tap is one of the most common calls our engineers receive across Chichester and the surrounding area.

The lifespan of a tap depends heavily on four things: the quality of the tap itself, the hardness of the water in your area, how heavily it is used, and whether small problems get fixed promptly or left to worsen. West Sussex sits in a region of predominantly hard water, which accelerates limescale build-up inside the tap body and on the seating surfaces that washers press against. This is a significant factor that many homeowners overlook entirely.

Budget taps made with thin brass or plastic internals might start dripping within three to five years. Mid-range taps from reputable brands typically last ten to fifteen years before the internals need replacing. High-quality taps from manufacturers like Grohe, Bristan, or Perrin and Rowe can outlast the kitchen or bathroom they were installed in, provided they are looked after.

The single biggest variable is water quality. Chichester's water supply carries a moderately high calcium carbonate content. Over time, this deposits inside the tap body, roughens the valve seating, and causes washers to wear unevenly. A tap that might last 20 years in a soft water area could be dripping within 8 years in parts of West Sussex without regular descaling and washer checks.

The Maintenance That Actually Makes a Difference

Most tap maintenance is simple enough for a competent homeowner to handle. Knowing which tasks genuinely extend the life of a tap and which are unnecessary separates smart maintenance from wasted effort.

Washer and O-ring replacement is the core task. The washer sits inside the tap head and presses against the valve seat to stop water flow when the tap is closed. Over time, it compresses, hardens, and loses its ability to form a proper seal. In a standard compression tap, this is what causes dripping. Replacing a washer typically costs between 1 and 5 pounds for parts if you do it yourself, or between 60 and 100 pounds if you call a plumber to do the work.

Here is how to replace a tap washer on a standard compression tap:

  1. Turn off the water supply at the isolating valve under the sink, or at the stopcock if there is no isolating valve.
  2. Turn the tap on to release any residual pressure in the pipe.
  3. Remove the tap handle, usually held by a screw concealed under a decorative cap on top.
  4. Use an adjustable spanner to unscrew the headgear nut - turn anticlockwise when viewed from above.
  5. Pull the headgear out and locate the washer at the bottom, held by a small nut.
  6. Remove the old washer, take it to a plumber's merchant to match the size, and fit the new one.
  7. Reassemble in reverse order, turn the water back on, and test.

Ceramic disc taps work differently. Instead of a rubber washer, they use a pair of ceramic discs that slide against each other to control flow. These are more durable but can crack or chip, particularly if grit enters the tap. When a ceramic disc tap drips, the fix is either cleaning debris from the cartridge or replacing the cartridge entirely. Cartridges typically cost between 10 and 40 pounds for standard models.

Descaling is the other maintenance task that pays dividends in hard water areas like Chichester. Once a year, remove the aerator from the spout tip and soak it in white vinegar for an hour to dissolve limescale build-up. This prevents restricted flow and back-pressure that can stress internal seals. If the tap body itself has heavy external limescale, a proprietary descaler applied carefully around the base will prevent scale from cementing the packing nut in place - which makes future repairs far more difficult.

Warning Signs a Tap Is Reaching End of Life

A dripping tap is the obvious sign, but it is rarely the first warning. Knowing what to look for earlier can mean the difference between a 60-pound washer replacement and a 200-pound tap replacement plus remedial work on a damaged valve seat.

Stiff or difficult operation is often the first clue. If a tap that used to turn easily now requires real effort, limescale has likely built up around the spindle or the O-rings have dried out and are causing friction. Left unaddressed, this often leads to people forcing the tap closed, which damages the valve seat and turns a simple washer job into a more involved repair.

A tap that drips even when turned off hard has usually reached the point where the washer can no longer compensate for a worn or pitted valve seat. At this stage, replacing just the washer may stop the drip temporarily, but it will return within months. Our engineers use the Voltrade GoFIX diagnostic process to identify whether the seat itself is damaged, which changes the repair recommendation significantly.

Weeping around the base of the tap or around the packing nut indicates that the O-rings have failed. You might notice a persistent damp patch on the surface around the tap rather than an actual drip from the spout. This is different from a washer problem and needs a different fix.

Visible corrosion on the tap body, particularly around the spout joint or where the tap meets the sink deck, suggests the tap is nearing the end of its serviceable life. In some cases this is purely cosmetic, but if corrosion has reached internal components it can compromise the structural integrity of the fitting.

Handle play - where the tap handle wobbles or has excessive movement - means the internal mechanism is worn or a retaining component has failed. This is sometimes repairable but in older taps it often signals that multiple components are fatigued simultaneously.

Repair vs Replace - the Honest Calculation

The decision between repairing a tap and replacing it entirely comes down to a combination of the tap's age, the cost of parts, and whether replacement parts are still available. There is no single right answer, but there is a logical way to think through it.

If the tap is less than ten years old, repair is almost always the better option. Parts are typically available, and the tap body itself has plenty of service life remaining. A washer or cartridge replacement will restore it to full working order for a fraction of the cost of replacement.

If the tap is between ten and fifteen years old, it depends on the diagnosis. A simple washer failure on an otherwise sound tap is worth repairing. However, if the valve seat is pitted, the tap body shows corrosion, and the spindle is stiff, you are potentially looking at replacing multiple components in a tap that will continue to age. At that point, a new tap at between 50 and 200 pounds for a mid-range fitting, plus 80 to 150 pounds for installation labour, often represents better long-term value.

Taps older than fifteen years in a hard water area like West Sussex fall into a different category. If the tap is a standard design with widely available spares, repair still makes sense. If it is an older bespoke or imported fitting where parts require special ordering, the repair cost can exceed replacement. Our engineers see this frequently in Chichester's older Victorian and Edwardian properties, where original fittings were often high quality but spares are now difficult to source.

The hidden cost to factor in is water waste. A tap dripping once per second wastes roughly 15 litres per hour, which adds up to over 130,000 litres per year. At current UK water tariffs, that represents meaningful money on your water bill, quite apart from the environmental waste. A prompt repair almost always pays for itself quickly.

Annual Service - What It Should Include

Most homeowners do not think about servicing their taps the way they do a boiler, but an annual 15-minute check can add years to the life of every tap in the house. Here is what a proper annual tap service should cover.

Check all taps for drips or seeping at the base. Catching a failing washer before it becomes a steady drip saves the valve seat from damage. Turn each tap on and off fully - they should operate smoothly without stiffness or grinding.

Remove and clean the aerators on all tap spouts. Unscrew the aerator tip, separate the mesh filter and flow restrictor, soak in white vinegar if there is visible scale, rinse, and refit. This takes two minutes per tap and maintains flow rate and back-pressure at the correct level.

Inspect the supply pipes under the sink or basin for any signs of weeping joints or corrosion. Check that isolating valves turn freely. An isolating valve that has seized open is useless in an emergency, and they are very common in older properties across West Sussex.

Apply silicone grease to the O-rings on taps that have been in service for five or more years. This is a preventive measure that prevents the rubber from drying and cracking. A small tube of silicone grease costs around 5 pounds and is available from any plumber's merchant.

Check the condition of the seals where the tap meets the sink or basin deck. A failing deck seal allows water to seep underneath the tap, which can cause the surface to swell or corrode. A new deck seal is a five-minute fix that prevents a much larger problem.

Simple Habits That Extend the Life by Years

The way taps are used on a daily basis has a real impact on how long they last. None of the following requires significant effort, but collectively these habits can add five or more years to the service life of your taps.

Do not over-tighten taps when closing them. The tap is off when the flow stops - forcing it further compresses the washer against the seat and accelerates wear on both surfaces. This is one of the most common causes of premature washer failure, and it is entirely preventable. Teach everyone in the household to close taps firmly but not forcefully.

Address drips promptly. A dripping tap is not a minor inconvenience to ignore until it gets worse. The water pressure working through an imperfect seal erodes the valve seat, which turns a 60-pound repair into a 120-pound one. Fix drips within a few weeks of noticing them, not months.

Use a water softener or inline filter if you live in an area with particularly hard water. Many homes in Chichester and the surrounding villages have water with high calcium content that significantly accelerates limescale build-up. A whole-house water softener is a meaningful investment at between 500 and 1,500 pounds installed, but it extends the life of every water-using appliance and fitting in the home, not just taps.

Keep the area under sinks well ventilated and regularly checked. The early signs of a failing tap are often visible under the sink before you notice anything above it. Catching a slow weep from a packing nut early means a simple O-ring replacement rather than water damage remediation.

When redecorating or refitting a kitchen or bathroom, take the opportunity to have a plumber inspect and service all the taps and supply fittings. This is the right time to replace any borderline components, update old flexible hoses that are approaching the end of their recommended 10-year service life, and fit isolating valves if they are not already in place.

Maintenance Questions

How do I know if my tap washer needs replacing or if the valve seat is damaged?

If replacing the washer stops the drip completely and it stays stopped for more than a few months, the seat is likely fine. If the drip returns quickly after a new washer is fitted, or if you can feel roughness or pitting when you inspect the seat with a finger, the seat has been damaged. A plumber can reface a seat with a reseating tool, which costs less than replacing the entire tap and restores the surface for a new washer to seal against properly.

Is a leaking tap in Chichester covered by home insurance?

Most standard UK home insurance policies do not cover routine wear and tear, and a leaking tap washer falls into that category. However, if a leaking tap causes consequential water damage to cabinets, floors, or ceilings, that resulting damage may be covered subject to your policy terms and excess. Some home emergency cover policies include call-out costs for plumbing leaks, so it is worth checking the small print before calling a plumber. Keep records of any reported leaks and the repairs carried out.

Can I fix a dripping tap myself or should I always call a plumber?

A standard compression tap with a rubber washer is a reasonable DIY job if you are comfortable turning off the water supply, using basic tools, and matching the correct washer size. The risk of getting it wrong is low, and the parts are cheap. Ceramic cartridge taps are also achievable with the right cartridge and a methodical approach. Where you should call a plumber is when the tap is fixed in place with corroded fittings, when the valve seat needs recutting, or when the supply pipework itself needs attention. A botched job that floods the kitchen costs far more to sort out.

How much should a plumber charge to fix a dripping tap in West Sussex?

Most local plumbers charge a call-out fee of between 50 and 80 pounds, with the repair work on top. A simple washer replacement should typically take under an hour, bringing the total to between 60 and 120 pounds including parts for a standard compression tap. Ceramic cartridge replacements may cost slightly more if the cartridge is an unusual size. If the valve seat needs recutting or the tap requires full replacement, expect to pay between 150 and 300 pounds depending on the tap specified and the complexity of the installation.

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Sophie Barker
Covers emergency plumbing, kitchen plumbing, and pipe repairs for homeowners across England and Wales.

Reviewed by Thomas Waite - technical reviewer at voltrade. This article is intended as general guidance and should not replace a professional on-site assessment. All Voltrade engineers are independently qualified, insured, and vetted.

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