How to Clean a Smelly Washing Machine in Poole
This guide covers everything you need to deep clean a smelly washing machine at home, from the drum and door seal to the detergent drawer and filter. It's aimed at homeowners in Poole and across Dorset who want to sort the problem themselves before spending money on a call-out.
A bad smell from your washing machine is one of the most common complaints our engineers hear. The good news is that in the majority of cases, you can fix it yourself with a couple of hours and a few products you probably already have under the kitchen sink. This guide takes you through the whole process step by step.
Before You Start - Safety First
Before you touch anything inside the machine, switch it off at the wall socket and unplug it. This is especially important when you're cleaning around the back of the drum, the filter housing, or the wiring areas near the back panel. Water and electricity are a dangerous combination, and even a machine that appears to be off can still have live components if it remains plugged in.
If your machine has been running a hot cycle recently, give it at least 30 minutes to cool down. The drum, heating element, and water inside can stay hot for longer than you'd expect, particularly in warmer weather. In Poole during summer, kitchens can get warm enough to slow that cooling time further.
Keep a couple of old towels on the floor around the machine. When you open the filter or pull out the drawer, residual water will often spill out. It's not a flood, but it's enough to make a mess on a laminate floor. Have a shallow tray or baking dish ready to catch the water from the filter housing - typically around half a litre or so.
What You Will Need
You won't need any specialist tools for this job. Most of what's required you'll have at home already, or you can pick it up from any supermarket or hardware shop in Poole or across Dorset for a few pounds.
- White distilled vinegar (approximately 250-500ml) - available from most supermarkets for under 2 pounds
- Soda crystals (500g bag) - typically around 1.50 pounds
- Bicarbonate of soda (optional, for the drum)
- A proprietary washing machine cleaner such as Dettol Washing Machine Cleaner, Dr Beckmann, or Calgon - commonly priced between 3 and 6 pounds
- An old toothbrush or small scrubbing brush
- Microfibre cloths or old rags
- Washing-up liquid
- Rubber gloves
- A shallow tray or bowl for the filter
- A torch (useful for checking the door seal and filter cavity)
Time estimate: Allow around 90 minutes to two hours for a full clean, including running the service wash cycle. The active work is probably 30 to 45 minutes - the rest is waiting for the machine to complete its programme.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1 - Run a Hot Service Wash First
Before you start scrubbing anything, run a hot empty cycle to loosen built-up residue inside the drum. Set the machine to its hottest programme - typically 90 degrees on most Bosch, Hotpoint, or Beko machines - with no laundry inside. Add either a full packet of soda crystals, 500ml of white vinegar, or a proprietary drum cleaner to the drum itself (not the drawer). This combination of heat and a mild cleaning agent breaks down the biofilm, limescale, and detergent residue that commonly causes the smell.
Do not mix bleach and vinegar together - that combination produces chlorine gas. Choose one or the other. If you've been using biological detergent and fabric softener heavily, soda crystals are particularly effective at cutting through the residue they leave behind.
Step 2 - Clean the Rubber Door Seal
The rubber gasket around the door is one of the most common sources of bad smells in front-loading machines. Pull back the folds of the seal and take a look inside - you'll commonly find a build-up of black mould, lint, hair, and standing water. This area stays damp after every wash and rarely dries out fully, making it an ideal environment for mildew to grow.
Dampen a cloth with a diluted bleach solution (one part bleach to four parts water) or white vinegar, and wipe thoroughly around every fold of the seal. Use an old toothbrush to get into the deeper grooves and remove any black mould spots. Some Samsung and LG drum seals have a pronounced rim that traps a surprising amount of debris - take your time here. Rinse the seal with a clean damp cloth afterwards to remove any residue.
Step 3 - Remove and Clean the Detergent Drawer
Pull the detergent drawer out completely - on most machines there's a small release tab inside the drawer that lets you remove it entirely. You'll often find a thick, gunky residue in the fabric softener compartment in particular, as softener doesn't rinse away cleanly and builds up over time.
Soak the drawer in warm water with washing-up liquid for 10 to 15 minutes, then scrub all the compartments with an old toothbrush. Pay attention to the softener compartment, which typically has a removable insert - take that out and clean underneath it. While the drawer is out, shine a torch into the drawer housing in the machine itself. Wipe down the interior of the cavity with a damp cloth - there's frequently mould growing on the upper surface of the housing that most people never notice.
Step 4 - Clean the Filter
The pump filter sits behind a small flap at the bottom front of most front-loading machines. This filter catches lint, coins, hair grips, and other debris that would otherwise block the pump. A blocked or dirty filter is a very common cause of bad smells - the debris sitting in the filter housing can start to smell quite unpleasant over time.
Place your shallow tray directly under the filter cap before you unscrew it. Turn the cap slowly anti-clockwise and let the water drain into the tray. Once the water has drained, remove the filter completely and rinse it under a tap. Remove any debris - you'll commonly find a surprising collection of small items in there. Use a cloth to clean inside the housing cavity. Replace the filter firmly and check it's properly sealed before closing the flap.
Step 5 - Check the Standpipe and Drainage Hose
If the smell has a distinctly sewage-like quality, the issue may not be inside the machine at all. The standpipe - the vertical pipe your machine drains into - can sometimes allow sewer gases to travel back through the drainage hose and into the drum. This is particularly common in older Poole properties where the plumbing hasn't been updated in some years.
Check that the drainage hose is inserted no more than 15cm into the standpipe, and that it has a proper U-bend or air gap to prevent siphoning and back-flow of gases. If the hose has been pushed too far down, pull it back. A blocked standpipe is also worth investigating - pour a kettle of hot water down it to check it drains freely.
Step 6 - Run a Second Hot Cycle
Once you've cleaned the seal, drawer, filter, and drainage hose, run another hot empty cycle. This time you can just run it clean, or add a small amount of bicarbonate of soda to the drum for extra deodorising. This second cycle flushes away any cleaning product residue and helps confirm whether the smell has gone before you start using the machine normally again.
Step 7 - Change Your Regular Habits
This step is about preventing the smell from coming back. After every wash, wipe the door seal dry and leave the door ajar for at least an hour. Pull the detergent drawer out slightly to allow air to circulate. Many smells come back within weeks because the machine is kept sealed between uses, trapping moisture and allowing mould to regrow. This is one of the most common patterns our engineers see in homes across Dorset - the machine gets a clean, smells fine for a month, then the problem returns because the drying-out habit wasn't kept up.
Also consider using less detergent and fabric softener than the packet recommends. Modern machines use very little water, and excess detergent doesn't rinse away fully - it builds up in the drum over time. You can run a quick diagnostic check using the Voltrade GoFIX tool to see whether your usage pattern or machine settings might be contributing to the problem before calling out an engineer.
What to Do If This Does Not Fix It
If you've worked through all seven steps and the smell returns within a week or two, there are a few more things worth trying. First, check whether you're using a low-temperature programme as your default wash. Modern detergents are designed to work at 30 or 40 degrees, but washing at low temperatures consistently means bacteria and mould are never fully killed off inside the drum. Try switching one wash per week to 60 degrees for regular maintenance.
Second, consider whether the smell might be coming from the machine's internal pipework. Beko and Hotpoint machines in particular can develop smell issues in the water inlet pipes or internal hoses, especially in hard water areas of Dorset where limescale builds up quickly. A descaling treatment with citric acid or a dedicated appliance descaler can sometimes reach parts that the drum cleaning cycle doesn't.
Third, check the door seal more carefully for tears or cracks. A damaged seal traps water in places that can't be reached with a cloth, and no amount of cleaning will solve a structural problem with the rubber. Replacement door seals for common brands typically cost between 20 and 60 pounds for the part, depending on the model.
When to Stop and Call a Professional
There are situations where a bad smell signals a mechanical fault rather than a cleaning problem, and pushing ahead yourself can make things worse. Call a qualified appliance repair engineer if you notice any of the following.
If the smell is burning or chemical rather than musty, stop using the machine immediately. This can indicate a failing motor, a problem with the heating element, or an electrical fault - none of which should be investigated by anyone other than a trained engineer.
If the machine is also making unusual noises, leaving clothes smelling worse after a wash than before, or if water isn't draining properly after cleaning the filter, these are signs of a mechanical issue. A blocked pump, a failing bearing, or a faulty heating element can all contribute to smell problems in ways that cleaning won't address.
In Poole and across Dorset, a standard washing machine diagnostic call-out typically costs between 60 and 100 pounds. A repair including parts commonly falls in the range of 120 to 250 pounds depending on what needs replacing. If your machine is more than eight to ten years old and requires an expensive repair, our engineers would generally advise weighing that cost against a replacement - new mid-range machines from brands like Bosch, Samsung, or LG typically start at around 350 to 500 pounds.
Questions About This Process
Why does my washing machine smell even after I have cleaned it?
If the smell returns quickly after cleaning, the most common cause is the drying-out habit. Keeping the door and drawer sealed after every wash traps moisture and allows mould to regrow within days. Another frequent cause is consistently washing at low temperatures - a 30 degree cycle does not kill the bacteria that produce the smell. Try leaving the door ajar between washes and running a 60 degree cycle at least once a week to keep on top of it.
Can I use bleach to clean the inside of my washing machine?
Yes, bleach is effective for cleaning the drum and killing mould, but use it carefully. Add half a cup of standard household bleach directly to the drum and run a hot empty cycle. Never mix bleach with vinegar or any other acid-based cleaner, as this produces harmful gases. Bleach can also degrade rubber seals over time if used too frequently, so limit bleach cleans to once a month at most and rely on soda crystals or proprietary drum cleaners for routine maintenance.
How often should I clean my washing machine to prevent smells?
Our engineers typically recommend a full drum clean once a month, a filter check every two to three months, and a wipe-down of the door seal after every wash cycle. Homes in Dorset with hard water may need to descale more frequently, as limescale build-up accelerates the conditions that cause smells. Running a monthly 90 degree service wash with soda crystals is one of the most effective preventative habits you can build into your routine.
```Reviewed by Sarah Thornton - senior technical editor at voltrade. This article is intended as general guidance and should not replace a professional on-site assessment. All Voltrade engineers are independently qualified, insured, and vetted.