How to Clean a Smelly Washing Machine in Deal

Published July 2026 | washing machine smells bad how to clean it

This guide walks you through exactly how to clean a washing machine that has developed a bad smell, covering the drum, door seal, drawer, and filter. It's written for homeowners in Deal and across Kent who want to tackle the problem themselves before calling out a repair engineer.

Before You Start - Safety First

Before you touch anything inside or around your washing machine, make sure the appliance is switched off at the mains and the plug is removed from the socket. This might sound obvious, but our engineers in Deal see all sorts of DIY attempts that go wrong simply because someone forgot to isolate the power before reaching into a wet drum or pulling out the filter.

Also check that the machine has finished any cycle it may have been running and that the drum has cooled down if it was recently used on a high temperature wash. Water may still be sitting in the drum or the sump hose, so have a few old towels nearby before you start working on the filter or drawer. If your machine is under warranty - common with newer Bosch, Samsung, or LG models - check whether opening the filter or using cleaning agents could affect that warranty before proceeding.

What You Will Need

Most of what you need to clean a smelly washing machine is probably already in your home. Here is a checklist of tools and materials to gather before you start:

• White distilled vinegar (a large bottle, around 500ml)
• Bicarbonate of soda (a standard box from a supermarket)
• A commercial washing machine cleaner such as Dettol Washing Machine Cleaner or HG Washing Machine Cleaner (typically 5 to 10 pounds per pack)
• An old toothbrush or small scrubbing brush
• Microfibre cloths or old rags
• A shallow tray or bowl to catch water from the filter
• Rubber gloves
• Warm water and a small amount of washing-up liquid

Time estimate: Allow around 45 minutes to an hour the first time you do this, plus additional time for the machine to run its cleaning cycles. It is not a quick five-minute job if you do it properly, but you will not need to do it as often if you maintain the machine afterwards.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1 - Clean the Detergent Drawer

The detergent drawer is one of the most commonly neglected parts of a washing machine and one of the biggest sources of mould and bad smells. Pull it out fully - most drawers have a release tab or button that lets you remove them completely - and take it to the sink.

Rinse it under hot water and use your old toothbrush to scrub away any built-up detergent residue, fabric softener deposits, and black mould from the corners and compartments. Pay particular attention to the softener compartment, as residue collects there and goes stale quickly. Soak the drawer in warm water with a little washing-up liquid if the build-up is stubborn, then rinse thoroughly and dry before replacing it.

While the drawer is out, use a damp cloth and toothbrush to clean inside the drawer cavity in the machine itself. Mould commonly grows on the roof of this cavity where it is dark and damp.

Step 2 - Scrub the Door Seal

The rubber door seal, also called the gasket, is the number one cause of washing machine smells. Water, fluff, hair, and small items of clothing get trapped in the folds of the seal and rot over time, producing a musty or eggy odour that transfers onto your laundry.

Pull back the folds of the rubber seal carefully and look inside. You will typically find dark mould, grey slime, and trapped debris. Use a cloth soaked in a solution of one part white vinegar to one part warm water to wipe out every fold. For heavy mould, apply neat white vinegar or a small amount of bicarbonate of soda paste (bicarb mixed with a little water) and scrub with the toothbrush. Rinse the seal thoroughly with a clean damp cloth afterwards. On machines with particularly bad seals - we commonly see this on older Hotpoint and Beko models - you may need to repeat this two or three times to get the rubber properly clean.

Step 3 - Clean the Drum with Vinegar

Pour two cups of white distilled vinegar directly into the drum of the washing machine. Do not add it to the drawer - you want it in the drum itself. Set the machine to its hottest wash cycle (usually 60 or 90 degrees) and run it empty. The vinegar breaks down limescale, dissolves soap scum, and kills odour-causing bacteria without leaving harmful residues.

Homes in Deal and across the Kent coast tend to have moderately hard water, which means limescale builds up inside the drum and heating element over time. Regular hot washes with vinegar help to keep this under control.

Step 4 - Follow Up with Bicarbonate of Soda

Once the vinegar cycle has finished, add half a cup of bicarbonate of soda directly to the drum and run another short hot cycle. Bicarb is mildly abrasive and has deodorising properties that complement the vinegar treatment. Together, these two steps tackle most mild to moderate smells without needing to buy specialist products every time.

If you prefer to use a purpose-made product, run a commercial washing machine cleaner such as Dettol or HG instead of the bicarb step. These products are formulated to work at different temperatures and often contain anti-bacterial agents that vinegar alone does not provide. Follow the instructions on the pack. Expect to pay around 4 to 9 pounds per treatment.

Step 5 - Clear the Filter

The pump filter is often overlooked, but a blocked or dirty filter is a very common cause of persistent washing machine smells. It is usually located behind a small panel at the bottom front of the machine. Place your shallow tray underneath it before you open it, as water will drain out.

Unscrew the filter cap slowly and allow the water to drain into the tray. Once empty, remove the filter completely and rinse it under a running tap. Use the toothbrush to clear any debris - hair, coins, fluff, and small socks are typical finds. Check the filter housing inside the machine for any build-up and wipe it clean before replacing the filter and tightening the cap firmly. Our engineers in Deal have found blocked filters on machines only a year or two old, so do not assume your machine is too new for this step.

Step 6 - Wipe Down the Exterior and Vents

Smells can also come from the area around the machine rather than inside it. Wipe down the top, sides, and the area behind the machine if accessible. Check that the machine's exhaust vents are not blocked with fluff or dust, particularly if your machine is in a utility room or a tight alcove. Poor ventilation around the appliance traps moisture and encourages mould growth on the exterior surfaces.

Step 7 - Run a Final Maintenance Wash

Finish with what engineers call a "maintenance wash" - a full cycle at 60 degrees with no laundry and no cleaning products. This flushes out any remaining residues from the previous steps and confirms the machine is running cleanly. After the cycle, leave the door open for at least two hours to allow the drum to air out fully. Make this a habit after every five or six washes and you will significantly reduce how quickly smells return.

What to Do If This Does Not Fix It

If you have worked through all seven steps and the smell persists, there are a few things to check before calling in an engineer. First, consider how long the smell has been present and whether it has got worse over time. A smell that has developed gradually over months is often deeply ingrained mould in the door seal, which may need replacing rather than cleaning. A new door seal on a machine such as a Samsung or LG front-loader typically costs between 20 and 50 pounds for the part, plus fitting.

Second, check whether the smell is coming from the drainage hose. If the hose is too long or has been pushed too far into the standpipe, it can siphon dirty water back into the machine. The end of the hose should sit no more than around 15 centimetres into the standpipe and the standpipe itself should be around 60 to 90 centimetres high. This is a common installation issue in older properties across Kent, particularly in Victorian terraces and converted flats.

Third, if you smell something burning or notice the machine is taking much longer than usual to heat the water, the heating element may be scaled up badly. This is more of a repair job than a cleaning job and is worth logging in the Voltrade GoFIX diagnostic tool, which can help identify whether the issue points to a component fault rather than a maintenance problem.

When to Stop and Call a Professional

Some washing machine problems look like cleaning issues but are actually faults that need a qualified engineer. Stop and book a professional if you notice any of the following:

• A sulphur or burning smell during or after a wash cycle - this can indicate an electrical fault
• Water pooling underneath the machine, which may suggest a failed pump or a cracked sump hose
• The drum is not draining properly and water is sitting in the bottom after cycles end
• Black mould has penetrated deep into the rubber door seal and the seal itself is torn or perishing - this needs replacing, not cleaning
• The machine is making loud grinding or banging noises alongside the smell, which can point to drum bearing failure

A standard appliance repair call-out in the Deal area typically costs between 60 and 100 pounds including the first hour of labour, with parts on top. A drum seal replacement commonly runs to between 80 and 150 pounds all in. Bearing replacement is a bigger job and can cost between 150 and 280 pounds depending on the machine and parts availability, so it is worth weighing up repair cost against the age and value of the appliance before committing.

Our engineers cover Deal and the surrounding parts of Kent regularly and can usually diagnose washing machine faults on a first visit using the Voltrade GoFIX system, which cross-references fault codes with known component issues to speed up diagnosis and reduce the number of return visits.

Questions About This Process

How often should I clean my washing machine to prevent smells?

Most appliance engineers recommend running a maintenance wash - a hot empty cycle with a cleaning agent - once a month. The door seal and detergent drawer should be wiped down every two to three weeks, particularly in hard water areas. In Deal and across much of Kent, moderate limescale build-up means monthly drum cleans are worth sticking to if you want to stay on top of odour before it becomes a problem.

Why does my washing machine smell after I have just cleaned it?

If the smell returns quickly after cleaning, it is commonly a sign that mould has penetrated the rubber door seal beyond what surface cleaning can reach, or that the drainage hose is causing dirty water to siphon back into the drum. It can also indicate that the cleaning cycle you ran was not hot enough - fabric conditioner and detergent residues need at least 60 degrees to break down properly. If the smell persists after two or three thorough cleaning sessions, a repair engineer should inspect the seal and drainage setup.

Can I use bleach to clean my washing machine drum?

Bleach is sometimes recommended, but most appliance engineers advise against using it regularly on washing machines. Concentrated bleach can degrade the rubber door seal over time and is corrosive to certain internal components. If you want to use it as a one-off treatment for severe mould, dilute it heavily and follow with several rinse cycles. For routine maintenance, white vinegar and bicarbonate of soda are safer and typically just as effective for the majority of odour problems.