Cooker Hood Not Working - Common Faults Catford Homeowners Should Know About

Published July 2026 | Cooker Hood Not Working Common Faults

We asked our Appliance Repair engineers the questions Catford homeowners ask most. Whether your cooker hood has stopped extracting altogether, started making strange noises, or simply won't switch on, the causes are usually more predictable than you might expect.

Why has my cooker hood completely stopped working?

A cooker hood that won't switch on at all is usually an electrical issue rather than a mechanical one. The most common culprit is a blown fuse - either in the plug if your hood is plug-in, or at the dedicated fuse spur if it's hardwired to the wall. Before calling anyone out, check the fuse spur switch and make sure it hasn't been accidentally knocked off. It happens more often than you'd think.

If the fuse is fine, the next thing our engineers look at is the control board. Modern cooker hoods from brands like Bosch, Elica, and Neff use electronic control panels, and these can fail - particularly after a power surge or if the hood has been exposed to years of grease and steam without proper cleaning. A faulty control board typically means the hood won't respond to any button presses at all, even if power is reaching the unit.

Another possibility is a failed motor capacitor. This is a small component that helps start the motor running, and when it goes, the hood appears completely dead even though the motor itself is often perfectly intact. Replacing a capacitor is a relatively inexpensive fix - typically 40 to 80 pounds for parts and labour combined - and it's well worth doing before you consider a full replacement.

Why is my cooker hood running but not extracting smoke or smells?

This is one of the most common complaints we hear from homeowners across Catford and the wider Greater London area. The hood sounds like it's working - you can hear the motor - but smells and smoke just aren't being dealt with. In most cases, this comes down to one of three things.

First, check the grease filters. These are the metal mesh panels that slide or clip out from underneath the hood. If they're clogged with built-up grease, they'll restrict airflow significantly. Most grease filters should be cleaned every four to six weeks if you cook regularly - put them through the dishwasher on a hot cycle, or soak them in hot water with washing-up liquid.

Second, if your hood uses a recirculation mode - meaning it doesn't duct to the outside but filters and recirculates the air - the carbon filters may be exhausted. Carbon filters can't be cleaned; they need replacing, typically every three to six months depending on how much you cook. Brands like Hotpoint and Baumatic sell compatible replacements, usually 15 to 35 pounds per set.

Third, there may be a partial motor failure or a duct obstruction. If the ducting runs through an external wall and the vent cover outside has become blocked by debris or a damaged flap, extraction will drop noticeably even with a fully working motor. It's always worth checking the outside vent before assuming the fault is internal.

Why is my cooker hood making a loud or unusual noise?

A noisy cooker hood is irritating, but the type of noise usually points directly to the cause, which makes diagnosis fairly reliable.

A rattling or vibrating sound is most often a loose grease filter that hasn't been clicked back into place properly after cleaning, or occasionally a small piece of debris - a bit of foil, a crisp packet corner - that's been drawn into the fan housing. Check and reseat your filters first. If the rattle continues, you may need an engineer to open up the fan housing.

A droning or humming noise that's louder than it used to be often indicates a worn motor bearing. Motors in cooker hoods are designed to last between eight and fifteen years with normal use, but in a busy kitchen - like many we see across Catford - heavy daily use can shorten that lifespan. A bearing replacement or motor swap typically costs between 80 and 150 pounds including labour, depending on the model.

A scraping or grinding noise is more serious and usually means something is physically contacting the fan blades. Don't keep running the hood in this state - you risk damaging the blades and turning a relatively minor repair into a much costlier one. Switch it off and get it looked at promptly.

Why are the lights on my cooker hood not working?

Cooker hood lights fail more often than most people expect. They're exposed to heat and grease vapour every time you cook, which takes a toll over time. The fix depends on the type of bulb or lighting module fitted.

Older hoods typically use G4 halogen capsules or standard E14 screw-fit bulbs. These are inexpensive and safe to replace yourself - just make sure the hood is isolated at the fuse spur first, and let any existing bulb cool completely before touching it. Always check the voltage rating before buying a replacement, as most are either 12V or 240V and the two aren't interchangeable.

Newer hoods from brands like Siemens, AEG, and Bosch increasingly use integrated LED strips or modules. These last longer than halogen bulbs, but when they do fail, you typically can't fix them with a simple bulb swap - the whole LED module needs replacing, which usually costs 30 to 70 pounds for parts alone.

If you've swapped the bulb and the lights still don't work, the fault is likely in the light switch circuit on the control board rather than the bulb itself. At that point, an engineer needs to take a look.

How often should I clean or replace my cooker hood filters?

Filter maintenance is the single biggest factor in keeping a cooker hood working properly, and it's where we see the most neglect from homeowners right across Greater London. There are two types of filter to think about, and they're very different in how they're maintained.

Grease filters are the metal mesh panels underneath the hood. These should be cleaned every four to six weeks in a typical household, or more frequently if you do a lot of frying. Most are dishwasher safe on a hot programme. If the mesh is warped, permanently discoloured, or corroded, replace it rather than cleaning it - replacement grease filters are usually 10 to 30 pounds and widely available for most brands including Hotpoint, Beko, and Indesit.

Carbon or charcoal filters apply only to recirculating hoods - those without external ducting. These cannot be washed or regenerated; they need full replacement every three to six months. An exhausted carbon filter means cooking smells are being pushed back into your kitchen rather than neutralised. Replacement sets are typically 15 to 40 pounds.

If you're unsure whether your hood recirculates or extracts externally, look for ducting running through the wall or ceiling above the unit. If there's no ducting, it's recirculating and carbon filters are essential.

My cooker hood keeps tripping the electrics - what's causing that?

A cooker hood that repeatedly trips your consumer unit is flagging an electrical fault that needs proper diagnosis. Keep resetting the trip and the underlying problem will only get worse.

The most common cause is a failing motor that's drawing excessive current - often because the motor windings are breaking down or because the fan is straining against a blockage or heavy grease build-up inside the housing. As the motor works harder, it draws more current than the circuit protection will allow.

Moisture ingress is another frequent culprit. Condensation and cooking steam can work their way into wiring connections or the motor housing, especially in older hoods or those that haven't been cleaned internally for years. Once moisture reaches an electrical component, it creates a fault path that trips the RCD on your consumer unit.

Wiring deterioration is also worth considering in hoods more than ten years old. Insulation on internal wiring can crack and become brittle near heat sources, eventually causing a short.

In all these cases, our engineers use the Voltrade GoFIX diagnostic tool to pinpoint exactly which component is causing the fault before recommending any repair. This avoids unnecessary parts replacements and typically saves homeowners a meaningful amount of money compared to a guess-and-replace approach.

Can I repair a cooker hood myself or do I need an engineer?

There's a sensible line to draw here, and it largely comes down to whether the job involves live electrical components.

These tasks are generally safe for a competent homeowner to tackle:

1. Cleaning or replacing grease and carbon filters
2. Replacing a blown fuse in the plug or at the fuse spur
3. Swapping a standard screw-fit or halogen capsule bulb after isolating the supply
4. Reseating a loose filter panel
5. Checking the external vent cover for blockages

Anything involving the motor, internal wiring, control board, or LED modules should be left to a qualified engineer. Hardwired cooker hoods are permanently live at the unit unless the supply is properly isolated, and working on them without the right knowledge and tools carries real risk.

If your hood is still within its manufacturer warranty - many Bosch, Neff, and Elica models come with a two-year warranty - contact the manufacturer before attempting any repairs yourself, as DIY work will typically void that cover. For hoods out of warranty, an independent appliance repair engineer is usually the most cost-effective route.

How much does it typically cost to repair a cooker hood in Catford?

Repair costs vary depending on the fault, the model, and whether parts need to be ordered in, but here's a realistic breakdown of what homeowners in Catford and across Greater London typically pay in 2026:

• Grease filter replacement: 10 to 30 pounds DIY, or 40 to 60 pounds with a call-out
• Carbon filter replacement: 15 to 40 pounds DIY, or 45 to 65 pounds with an engineer visit
• Motor capacitor replacement: 40 to 80 pounds all-in
• Fan motor replacement: 90 to 180 pounds depending on the model and brand
• Control board replacement: 80 to 200 pounds - premium brands like Siemens or Neff tend to sit at the higher end
• LED lighting module: 50 to 100 pounds all-in
• Wiring fault diagnosis and repair: 60 to 120 pounds

Most cooker hood repairs fall in the 60 to 150 pound range. As a general rule, if a repair is going to cost more than half the price of a comparable new hood, replacement is usually the more sensible financial decision.

When should I replace my cooker hood rather than repair it?

Not every fault is worth fixing, and our engineers are always straight with homeowners about when replacement makes more sense than repair.

Consider replacement when the hood is more than twelve to fifteen years old and a major component like the motor or control board has failed. At that age, other components are likely to be near the end of their working life too, and sourcing spare parts for discontinued models becomes progressively harder and more expensive.

Also consider replacement when the repair cost approaches or exceeds 50 to 60 per cent of a comparable new unit. Budget extraction hoods start from around 80 to 120 pounds, while solid mid-range models from Bosch, Elica, or Hotpoint typically cost 150 to 350 pounds. If a motor replacement on an older budget hood is going to cost 130 pounds, that money is better applied towards a new unit.

Physical damage - bent or disconnected ducting, a cracked casing, or badly corroded internal components - is another case where repair often can't fully resolve the underlying problem. The same applies if the hood has suffered moisture damage to the motor housing: performance rarely fully recovers even after a repair.

Does the brand of my cooker hood affect how easy it is to repair?

Brand matters more than most people realise - both in terms of fault frequency and how repairable the unit is when something does go wrong. Based on what our engineers see working across Catford and the surrounding areas, here's what tends to hold true.

German-engineered brands like Bosch, Neff, and Siemens generally have fewer faults in normal service and better build quality throughout. Spare parts can be more expensive, but availability is usually strong for at least ten years after manufacture, which makes repair a viable option well into the hood's life.

Hotpoint, Beko, and Indesit are popular mid-market choices. They're repairable, parts are widely stocked, and most independent engineers know them well. Motors on the lower-end models can show wear earlier than the premium brands, but overall they represent good value when things do go wrong.

Italian brands like Elica and Faber produce popular chimney-style hoods and are generally reliable. Control boards can occasionally be harder to source for older models, but for hoods under eight years old this is rarely an issue.

Unbranded or own-label hoods sold by kitchen showrooms and budget retailers are typically the hardest to repair - parts are often unavailable or need to be sourced from overseas, and build quality is more variable. If you're buying a replacement, choosing a recognisable brand pays off in the long run.

When a cooker hood develops a fault, the cause is almost always identifiable and in most cases repairable at a cost well below that of a new unit. Regular filter maintenance, prompt attention to unusual noises, and a proper diagnosis before any parts are ordered are the three things that keep repair bills manageable. Whether you're in Catford or elsewhere across the region, getting an engineer to assess the fault early is nearly always the most cost-effective approach.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my cooker hood recirculates or extracts externally?

Look for ducting running from the top of the hood through the wall or ceiling above it. If there is no visible ducting, the hood recirculates filtered air back into the kitchen and relies entirely on carbon filters to remove cooking odours. Many models can be switched between modes - check your installation manual or the manufacturer's website for your specific model.

Can a cooker hood be repaired if it is no longer under warranty?

Yes, in most cases. Warranty status has no bearing on whether a hood can be repaired - it only affects whether the manufacturer will cover the cost. Common repairs such as motor replacements, control board swaps, and filter replacements can all be carried out by an independent appliance repair engineer at any point in the hood's life, provided spare parts are still available for the model.

How long should a cooker hood last before needing replacement?

A well-maintained cooker hood from a reputable brand typically lasts between ten and fifteen years under normal household use. Regular cleaning of grease filters is the single biggest factor in extending its working life. Hoods that are never cleaned internally tend to develop motor and wiring faults significantly earlier than those that receive basic periodic maintenance.

Is it safe to use a cooker hood that keeps tripping the electrics?

No. A cooker hood that repeatedly trips the RCD or circuit breaker on your consumer unit has an active electrical fault. Continuing to use it - or repeatedly resetting the trip - risks worsening the fault and potentially creating a fire or shock hazard. Switch the hood off at the fuse spur and get it diagnosed by a qualified engineer before using it again.