Tumble Dryer Not Heating in Andover - What Our Appliance Repair Engineers Say

Published September 2026 | Tumble dryer not heating how to fix it

We asked our Appliance Repair engineers the questions Andover homeowners ask most. If your tumble dryer is spinning but producing no heat, this guide covers the most likely causes, what to check yourself, and when it's time to call a professional.

Why Has My Tumble Dryer Suddenly Stopped Heating?

A dryer that tumbles but stays cold is one of the most common faults we see across Andover and the wider Hampshire area. The fact that the drum is spinning is actually useful information - it rules out motor and belt problems and tells you the fault is almost certainly in the heating circuit.

In most cases it comes down to one of four things: a blown heating element, a tripped thermal overload cut-out, a failed thermostat, or a blocked exhaust vent. On a standard vented dryer, heat is generated by a coiled wire element. When that element fails, the drum carries on turning but the air stays cold. Condenser and heat pump dryers - which are increasingly common in Hampshire homes - use a heat exchanger or refrigerant loop instead, but the symptom looks identical from the outside.

Before pulling the machine apart, run through a few basics. Make sure the door seal is intact, check that the programme you've selected actually uses heat (some delicate cycles use low or no heat by design), and look for any error codes on the display. Our engineers recommend using the Voltrade GoFIX diagnostic tool to work through exactly this kind of pre-check - it can point you toward the most likely cause before any panels come off.

Is It Safe to Keep Running a Tumble Dryer That Isn't Heating?

It depends on the cause, and in some cases the answer is definitely no. If the heating fault is being caused by a blocked lint filter or an obstructed exhaust duct, continuing to run the machine carries a real fire risk. Lint deposits in a restricted duct can reach temperatures high enough to ignite, and by the time you notice the heating has failed, the ducting may already be partially scorched.

If the cause is a failed component - an element or thermostat - the immediate fire risk is lower, but it still isn't wise to keep running the machine. Some dryers compensate for heat loss by extending the cycle time, which puts extra strain on the motor. Older Hotpoint and Beko machines in particular can develop secondary faults when left running with a known component failure.

Our advice is to stop using the dryer until the fault is diagnosed. If you're in or around Andover and want a working hypothesis before booking an engineer, the Voltrade GoFIX tool can help you identify what's most likely wrong based on how the machine is behaving.

What Is a Heating Element and How Do I Know If Mine Has Blown?

The heating element is the part that actually generates warmth inside the drum. In most vented and condenser dryers it's a coiled nichrome wire enclosed in a metal housing, usually mounted at the back or base of the machine. When electrical current passes through it, the wire heats up - similar in principle to the element in an electric kettle. Over time, the repeated cycle of heating and cooling fatigues the wire until it snaps or burns through.

When an element fails it typically breaks the circuit completely, so you get a dryer that runs normally but produces no heat at all throughout the cycle. There's no warmth at any point, not just at the start.

You can test an element with a multimeter set to continuity mode. Disconnect the machine from the mains first - absolutely non-negotiable before touching internal components. On most Bosch, LG and Samsung machines, the back panel comes off with six to eight screws. Locate the element housing, disconnect the wires, and probe the terminals. No continuity means the element has failed. Replacement elements for common models typically cost between 20 and 60 pounds for the part alone.

Could a Blocked Lint Filter or Exhaust Vent Be Causing the Heating Fault?

Yes, and it's more common than most people expect. Tumble dryers have a thermal overload safety system that cuts power to the heating element if the internal temperature climbs too high. A clogged lint filter or a kinked and blocked exhaust duct is one of the most reliable ways to trigger that cut-out - the airflow restriction causes heat to build up, the safety device trips, and the heating stops.

The lint filter should be cleared after every single cycle. Even a filter that looks only lightly blocked can restrict airflow enough to cause overheating on longer or heavier programmes. If your home has a long duct run to an external vent, that duct should ideally be professionally cleaned every one to two years.

Here's a quick check to run before calling anyone out:

1. Remove the lint filter and clean it thoroughly, not just the surface layer.
2. Check the exhaust hose at the back of the machine for kinks, crushing or visible blockages.
3. If you have an external wall vent, make sure the flap opens freely and isn't packed with debris.
4. Run the machine briefly and feel the airflow at the exhaust point - there should be a noticeable warm, moist stream if the vent is clear.

If the filter and vent are clear but the machine still isn't heating, the thermal cut-out itself may need to be reset or replaced.

What Is a Thermal Overload Cut-Out and Why Does Mine Keep Tripping?

A thermal overload cut-out - sometimes called a thermal limiter or TOC - is a safety component that interrupts power to the heating element when the dryer's internal temperature exceeds a safe limit. It's there to prevent fires. On most machines it's a small disc-shaped device wired in series with the heating element, typically mounted directly on the element housing or on the exhaust duct.

There are two types. A resettable cut-out will restore itself once the machine cools down, which can make the fault feel like it's come and gone, only for the dryer to stop heating again mid-cycle. A one-shot thermal fuse, fitted on many Hotpoint, Indesit and Beko machines, blows permanently when triggered and needs to be physically replaced.

If your cut-out keeps tripping, that's a warning signal - it's not a coincidence. Repeated tripping almost always means there's an underlying airflow issue, usually a partially blocked vent or a filter that isn't being cleaned regularly enough. Replacing the cut-out without fixing the root cause just means the new one trips again. Our engineers working in the Andover area see this pattern regularly: the cut-out has been replaced once or twice but the exhaust duct has never been cleared, so the fault keeps coming back.

How Do I Know If the Thermostat Has Failed?

Most tumble dryers have at least two thermostats - a working thermostat that regulates temperature during normal operation, and a separate safety cut-out. The working thermostat can fail in two directions: it can stick open, meaning no heat is generated even when the machine is cold; or it can stick closed, meaning heat doesn't cut off when it should. The second failure mode is more hazardous.

A failed working thermostat often produces a symptom that looks exactly like a blown element - no heat, drum turning normally. The multimeter test is the same in principle. Disconnect the machine from the mains, locate the thermostat (usually on the exhaust duct or element housing), disconnect the terminals and test for continuity. A working thermostat should show continuity when cold; it breaks the circuit only when it reaches its rated temperature.

Thermostat replacement is usually less expensive than an element. Parts for common brands like Bosch, Samsung or LG typically cost between 10 and 30 pounds, and fitting one is usually an hour or less of labour. If you're not confident testing components yourself, it's worth having an engineer confirm which component has actually failed rather than replacing both and hoping for the best.

Can I Replace the Heating Element Myself?

On many machines, yes - element replacement is considered a DIY-level repair on standard vented and condenser dryers, and there's a good amount of model-specific guidance available online. That said, a few things commonly catch people out.

Electrical safety comes first. Always disconnect the machine from the mains before removing any panels, and double-check there's no residual charge before touching internal components. This sounds obvious but it's where DIY appliance repairs occasionally go wrong.

Getting the right part is the next challenge. Heating elements are model-specific - a Bosch element from one series won't fit a different model from the same range. Get the full model number from the rating plate (usually inside the door frame or on the back panel) and confirm the part number before ordering.

Access can also be an issue. On some machines - particularly front-loading condenser dryers and most heat pump models - the element isn't reachable from the back panel alone. You may need to remove the drum, which is more involved and takes considerably longer. If you're comfortable with DIY and you have a common vented dryer from Hotpoint or Beko, having a go yourself is reasonable. If it's a heat pump dryer, calling an engineer will save you a lot of time.

How Much Does a Tumble Dryer Repair Typically Cost in Andover?

Repair costs in Andover and across Hampshire vary depending on the fault, the brand and whether parts need to be ordered in. As a rough guide based on what our engineers typically see:

• Heating element replacement: typically between 80 and 150 pounds including labour and parts.
• Thermostat or thermal cut-out replacement: typically between 60 and 110 pounds.
• Vent cleaning and service: typically between 50 and 80 pounds.
• Control board replacement: typically between 150 and 300 pounds - at this level the repair-versus-replace question becomes worth examining carefully.

Call-out charges vary, but most appliance repair companies will charge between 40 and 70 pounds to diagnose the fault, sometimes redeemable against the repair if you proceed. Always ask upfront whether the diagnostic fee is included if you go ahead.

Parts availability also affects the total cost. Common Hotpoint, Beko and Indesit parts are usually in stock and can arrive next day. Spare parts for older Bosch or Miele machines can take longer and sometimes cost considerably more. If your dryer is over ten years old and the repair quote is high, it's worth pausing before committing.

My Dryer Heats Sometimes But Not Always - What's Causing That?

Intermittent heating is often harder to diagnose than a machine that's stopped heating completely, because the fault isn't consistently present when you're testing it. In our experience, the cause is usually one of three things: a resettable thermal cut-out that trips under load and resets when the machine cools down, a loose or corroded electrical connection in the heating circuit, or a thermostat that's deteriorating but hasn't failed outright yet.

The resettable cut-out scenario is the most common. The machine heats normally, but after a heavy load or with a partially blocked duct, the internal temperature builds up enough to trip the safety device. The cycle finishes cold. Leave it for an hour and the next cycle works fine. This repeats until either the cut-out fails permanently or the underlying airflow problem is fixed.

A loose connection is trickier to spot and usually needs someone to get inside the machine. Vibration over years of use can work terminal connectors loose, causing intermittent contact in the heating circuit. If you or an engineer open the machine and spot any connectors that look discoloured, corroded or partially pulled away from their terminals, that's a strong candidate for the fault.

When Should I Repair My Tumble Dryer and When Should I Replace It?

There's no single right answer here, but there are a few reliable factors to consider. A common rule of thumb is that a repair makes sense if it costs less than half the replacement value of the machine. For a basic vented dryer that would cost 250 to 350 pounds new, a repair bill of around 100 pounds is worth taking on. For a heat pump dryer worth 600 to 900 pounds to replace, spending 200 to 250 pounds on a significant repair can still make sense financially.

Age matters a lot. If the dryer is under five years old and the fault is a single component, repair almost always wins. If it's eight to ten years old, has needed multiple repairs, and the latest fault is expensive, replacement is often the more sensible route.

Energy efficiency is also worth factoring in, particularly if running costs are a concern. A ten-year-old vented dryer uses significantly more electricity per cycle than a modern heat pump model. Over three to five years of regular use, the energy saving from upgrading can meaningfully contribute to the total cost calculation.

Our engineers will always give you a direct assessment. If a repair doesn't make economic sense for your machine, we'll tell you before you spend money on parts.

If your tumble dryer has stopped heating, the cause is almost always one of a small number of identifiable components - an element, a thermostat, a thermal cut-out or an airflow problem. Most of these are fixable without replacing the whole machine. Start with the basics: clean the filter, check the exhaust vent, look for error codes. If that doesn't point to an answer, an experienced appliance repair engineer can typically diagnose and resolve the fault in a single visit. Andover homeowners can use the Voltrade GoFIX tool to work through a diagnosis before booking, helping ensure the engineer arrives with the right parts for a first-visit fix.

How long should a tumble dryer last before it needs a major repair?

Most tumble dryers are built to last between 10 and 15 years with regular maintenance. Vented models tend to be at the longer end of that range. If your machine is under eight years old and has developed its first significant fault, repair is almost always worth considering before looking at replacement.

Why does my tumble dryer smell burnt even though it's still producing some heat?

A burning smell while the machine is still heating usually points to a lint build-up in the exhaust duct or on the element housing itself. In some cases it can indicate a partially failed element that's overheating in one section. Either way, stop using the machine and have it checked - a burning smell is not something to run through and see if it clears.

Can a heat pump tumble dryer be repaired if the heating system fails?

Yes, heat pump dryers can be repaired, but the fault diagnosis is more involved than on a standard vented machine. The heat pump circuit uses a refrigerant loop and a compressor, and faults in that system typically require a specialist. Parts and labour for heat pump dryer repairs commonly cost more than for conventional machines, so the repair-versus-replace calculation is particularly worth doing carefully before committing.

Do I need to be home for the full duration of a tumble dryer repair visit?

In most cases, yes - at least for the first part of the visit. The engineer will need access to the machine, and often needs to run a test cycle at the end to confirm the fault has been fully resolved. A typical heating element or thermostat repair, including testing, usually takes between one and two hours from arrival to completion.