Cooker Hood Not Working in Alton - Common Faults Explained by Our Engineers

Published September 2026 | Cooker Hood Not Working Common Faults

We asked our Appliance Repair engineers the questions Alton homeowners ask most about cooker hoods that have stopped working, lost extraction power, or started making worrying noises above the hob.

Why Has My Cooker Hood Completely Stopped Working?

A cooker hood that won't switch on at all is usually down to one of three things: a power supply problem, a blown internal fuse, or a failed control board. Before you call anyone out, it's worth checking the basics first.

Start at your consumer unit and look for a tripped circuit breaker. Some hoods in Alton kitchens are wired into a dedicated fused spur on the wall - pull the fuse carrier out and check whether the cartridge or fuse wire has gone. If the hood plugs into a socket, test that socket with something else to confirm it's live.

If power is getting through but pressing the buttons does nothing at all, the fault is more likely inside the unit itself. Most modern hoods - from Bosch integrated models to Hotpoint chimney styles - are controlled by a PCB (printed circuit board) that manages every function. These boards can fail after a power surge, moisture ingress from heavy cooking steam, or simply through age. When the PCB goes, the hood typically shows no response whatsoever: no fan, no lights, no display.

Our engineers use the Voltrade GoFIX diagnostic process to identify quickly whether the fault sits in the control board, the motor, or the wiring, which saves you paying for parts you don't actually need. A thorough diagnostic first is nearly always the right move.

Why Is the Fan Running But the Hood Is Not Extracting Smoke or Smells?

This is the most common complaint our engineers encounter in Alton homes. The fan is audible, it sounds like it's working, but cooking smells hang around the kitchen long after the hob has gone off. In most cases the culprit is a blocked or saturated grease filter.

Grease filters - the metal mesh panels on the underside of the hood - trap airborne grease before it reaches the fan and ductwork. Over time they become so loaded that barely any air can pass through. Most manufacturers recommend cleaning metal grease filters every four to six weeks if you cook regularly. Many are dishwasher-safe, though check your manual first, as Beko and Hotpoint hoods sometimes specify a particular cycle to avoid damage.

If your hood is a recirculating model rather than a ducted one, it also uses a charcoal filter to neutralise odours before returning air to the kitchen. These cannot be washed - they need replacing, typically every three to six months depending on how much you cook. A saturated charcoal filter makes the hood almost entirely ineffective even when the motor is running perfectly.

Beyond filters, check that ducting is still intact if your hood vents outside. Flexible aluminium duct that has been crushed, disconnected at a joint, or blocked by debris at the external vent will dramatically reduce extraction performance regardless of how clean everything else is.

What Is Causing the Loud Humming or Rattling When the Hood Is On?

Noise faults in cooker hoods tend to fall into two categories - humming and rattling - and they have quite different causes.

A persistent humming, especially one that gets louder as you increase the fan speed, typically points to the motor. Inside the motor are electrical windings, and when these begin to break down or short-circuit, the motor produces an audible hum instead of running quietly. Worn or dry bearings produce a similar sound. In most cases the motor needs replacing rather than repairing. Depending on the brand and model, a replacement motor typically costs between 40 and 120 pounds for the part alone, with labour on top.

Rattling is a different issue. If something vibrates at certain speeds, check first that the grease filters are properly seated - a filter that is slightly misaligned or has a worn clip will vibrate against the hood body. The fan impeller can also accumulate grease and become unbalanced, producing a rhythmic wobble. Occasionally a fragment of debris finds its way into the fan housing and bounces around when the fan runs.

If the rattling seems to come from above the hood rather than within it, check the ducting. Lightweight flexible duct can vibrate against ceiling joists or neighbouring pipework. Our Alton engineers find this is the actual source of the noise quite regularly - and it's a simple fix once identified.

Why Are the Lights on My Cooker Hood Not Working?

Failed lighting is usually one of the simpler faults to sort out, though the solution depends on what type of bulb your hood uses.

Older cooker hoods - particularly models from Hotpoint and Beko that are more than ten years old - commonly use halogen bulbs, which are inexpensive and easy to swap out. The main challenge is identifying the correct fitting: G4, G9, and BA15d are all common types, so check the existing bulb before ordering. Halogen bulbs also fail faster if you handle them with bare fingers during fitting, as skin oils create hot spots on the glass.

Many newer hoods use LED modules instead of individual replaceable bulbs. On some Samsung and LG models the LED array is a sealed unit mounted on a board inside the hood. These cannot be swapped like a bulb - the whole LED module or board needs replacing, which is a job for an engineer. Parts typically cost between 20 and 60 pounds depending on the brand, with labour added to that.

Before assuming the bulbs or LEDs have failed, check the obvious: does the lighting switch on the control panel actually say it is on? Many hoods have separate switches for the fan and the lights, and it is easy to press the wrong one. Also check whether other hood functions are working normally. If the fan runs but the lights do not, you are dealing with a lighting-specific fault rather than a power or PCB problem.

How Do I Know If My Cooker Hood Motor Has Actually Failed?

Motor failure is one of the more costly cooker hood repairs, so it is worth being confident about the diagnosis before spending money on parts.

The clearest sign is when the fan will not turn at all even though the hood appears to power on - the lights work, the controls respond, but there is no airflow and no sound of the fan running. Another sign is a motor that starts briefly and then cuts out after a few seconds. This usually means a thermal overload protection is tripping because the motor is overheating.

A burning smell when the hood is switched on is a more urgent sign. This is typically the smell of electrical windings overheating - switch the hood off immediately and do not run it again until it has been inspected. Continuing to use it risks further electrical damage.

Our engineers test motor windings for continuity with a multimeter and check whether the motor shaft rotates freely by hand when disconnected from power. A seized bearing or a shorted winding confirms the motor needs replacing. Most cooker hood motors are available as spare parts - Bosch and Siemens hoods in particular have good parts availability in Hampshire. Motor replacements for mainstream brands typically cost between 80 and 200 pounds all-in, including labour.

Can I Repair My Cooker Hood Myself or Do I Need an Engineer?

There is quite a lot a confident homeowner in Alton can do without needing to call anyone, and it is always worth trying the basics first.

Things you can safely tackle yourself include:

1. Cleaning or replacing metal grease filters
2. Replacing charcoal filters on recirculating models
3. Swapping accessible halogen bulbs like G9 or G4 types
4. Checking and resetting a tripped circuit breaker or fused spur
5. Inspecting visible flexible ducting for obvious kinks or disconnections

Where it gets more involved - and where calling an engineer is the sensible call - is anything inside the hood that involves the motor, PCB, or mains wiring. Cooker hoods are connected to your home's mains supply, and working inside them without the right knowledge creates a real safety risk. It is also easy to damage further components if you are not familiar with how a particular hood is constructed.

If you are genuinely unsure what the fault is, getting a professional diagnosis early often saves money. Our engineers run through the Voltrade GoFIX assessment before ordering any parts, which means you avoid paying for components the hood turns out not to need.

How Much Does Cooker Hood Repair Typically Cost in Alton?

Repair costs across Alton and Hampshire vary depending on the fault, the brand, and the parts required. Here is a realistic picture of what you are likely to encounter.

Filter replacement done yourself typically costs between 10 and 40 pounds depending on the filter type. Charcoal filters for Beko or Hotpoint hoods tend to sit at the lower end of that range. Halogen bulb replacement is usually under 10 pounds for the bulb itself.

LED module replacement, which requires an engineer, tends to come out at 60 to 120 pounds including parts and labour on most common models.

Motor replacement is where costs increase more noticeably. Parts for mainstream brands like Bosch, Hotpoint, or Beko typically run between 50 and 150 pounds, with the total repair cost - including labour - coming to around 120 to 250 pounds in most cases.

Control board replacement is among the more expensive repairs. PCBs can cost between 60 and 200 pounds for the part alone on some models, bringing the all-in cost to roughly 150 to 300 pounds depending on the hood.

As a general rule, if a repair estimate comes to more than 60 to 70 percent of the cost of a comparable new hood, it is worth weighing up replacement instead. Our engineers will always give you a clear comparison rather than pushing you toward an expensive fix when a new hood makes better financial sense.

How Often Should Cooker Hood Filters Be Cleaned or Replaced?

Filter maintenance is the single most effective thing a homeowner can do to keep a cooker hood performing well, and it is consistently the most neglected part of kitchen appliance care.

Metal grease filters should be cleaned every four to eight weeks for typical household cooking - more frequently if you fry regularly or cook at high heat. Most modern metal filters are dishwasher-safe on a hot cycle, though some manufacturers advise hand-washing in hot soapy water to prevent discolouration. A freshly cleaned filter makes a noticeable difference to extraction almost immediately.

Charcoal filters on recirculating hoods need replacing rather than cleaning. The activated carbon becomes saturated with odour molecules over time and cannot be restored by washing. Most manufacturers recommend replacement every three to six months, though heavy-cooking households may need to change them more often. Running a recirculating hood with an exhausted charcoal filter is effectively the same as running it with no filter at all.

Many homeowners in Alton are surprised to discover their hood is actually a recirculating model when they assumed it vented outside. If you are not sure which type you have, check behind the upper section of the hood. If there is ductwork going into a wall or ceiling, it is extracting to outside. If air exits through a grille at the top of the hood back into the kitchen with no ductwork, it is recirculating - and charcoal filters are essential to its performance.

When Does It Make More Sense to Replace a Cooker Hood Rather Than Repair It?

This is a question our engineers across Hampshire get asked regularly, and the answer usually comes down to the age of the hood, the cost of the repair, and the quality of the original appliance.

If the hood is more than ten years old and needs a major component - a motor, a control board, or a wiring harness - replacement often makes better financial sense, particularly for budget or mid-range models. Parts for older hoods can be harder to source and carry a higher price tag, and there is always the risk that something else fails shortly after an expensive repair.

Hood technology has also improved considerably over the past decade. Modern hoods run quieter, use less energy, and extract more effectively than equivalents from ten or fifteen years ago. If your Alton kitchen hood was already underperforming before the current fault developed, replacement is likely to give you a noticeably better result rather than simply restoring something that was already struggling.

On the other hand, if you have a high-quality integrated hood from a brand like Bosch or Siemens that is less than eight years old and the repair cost is reasonable, fixing it almost always makes sense. Quality integrated models can last fifteen to twenty years with proper maintenance, and replacing an integrated hood involves cabinetry work as well as appliance cost - making a repair even more attractive by comparison.

Are There Quick Checks I Can Do Before Calling an Engineer?

Our Alton engineers are often called out to faults that turn out to have a simple cause. Running through this checklist first can save you both time and money.

1. Check the circuit breaker and any fused spur. A tripped breaker is easy to miss, especially if your consumer unit is in a cupboard or utility room.
2. Remove and inspect the grease filters. If they are heavily loaded, clean them and test the hood again - the improvement in performance can be significant.
3. On recirculating models, check when you last replaced the charcoal filter. If you cannot remember, that is your answer.
4. Check that the fan speed selector or dial is not set to off or minimum. Manual dials can be knocked without noticing.
5. For lighting faults, confirm the lamp switch is actually on, not just the fan switch - many hoods have separate controls for each.
6. Listen carefully when you switch the hood on. No sound at all, a hum, a rattle, and a burning smell all point to different faults, and being able to describe what you hear will help an engineer diagnose the problem faster.

If none of these checks reveal an obvious cause - or if you notice a burning smell or any signs of scorching around the hood - stop using it and arrange an inspection before switching it on again.

Most cooker hood faults in Alton and across Hampshire follow the same patterns, and the majority are repairable once the cause is accurately identified. Whether the issue turns out to be a filter clean, a new motor, or a replacement control board, getting the diagnosis right first is what makes the difference between a cost-effective repair and unnecessary spending. If you are not sure what you are dealing with, an engineer assessment gives you a clear picture of the fault and the likely cost before any work begins.

How long does a cooker hood repair usually take?

Most cooker hood repairs are completed in a single visit lasting one to two hours. Jobs like motor replacement or bulb fitting are typically done on the day. Some parts - particularly PCBs for less common models - may need ordering in advance, which can add a few days to the turnaround time.

Can a cooker hood that keeps tripping the electrics be repaired?

In most cases, yes. A hood that repeatedly trips the circuit breaker typically has a short circuit in the motor windings, a faulty capacitor, or a wiring fault inside the unit. An engineer can test each component individually to pinpoint where the short is occurring and replace the affected part without needing to replace the whole hood.

Is it worth repairing a cooker hood that is more than ten years old?

It depends on the repair cost and the quality of the original hood. For budget or mid-range models over ten years old, a major repair can be difficult to justify against the cost of a new replacement. For high-quality integrated hoods from brands like Bosch or Siemens, repair still makes sense in many cases if the cost is reasonable and the parts are available.

Why does my cooker hood smell of burning when I switch it on?

A burning smell from a cooker hood almost always means the motor windings are overheating, which points to motor failure or an internal electrical fault. Switch the hood off immediately and do not use it again until an engineer has looked at it. Running a hood with a failing motor risks worsening the damage and, in some cases, creating a fire hazard.