How to Clean a Smelly Washing Machine in Abingdon

Published September 2026 | washing machine smells bad how to clean it

This guide walks you through exactly how to clean a smelly washing machine, step by step, so your laundry comes out fresh again. If you're a homeowner in Abingdon or the wider Oxfordshire area dealing with a musty or sour odour from your machine, this is for you.

Before You Start - Safety First

A smelly washing machine is rarely dangerous, but a few precautions will protect both you and your appliance. Our engineers always run through these basics before touching any machine.

• Switch the machine off at the mains before cleaning inside the drum or the filter. Unplugging it entirely is better than leaving it on standby.
• Wear rubber gloves. The build-up inside a neglected machine - mould, bacteria, detergent residue - isn't something you want on your hands.
• Never mix cleaning products. White vinegar and bleach together produce chlorine gas. Use one or the other, not both in the same wash cycle.
• Check your machine's manual before using any cleaning product inside the drum. Some manufacturers, including Bosch and Samsung, advise against vinegar as it can degrade rubber door seals over time.
• Keep children and pets away from the area when running a hot maintenance wash - steam and heat can build up around front-loaders quite quickly.

What You Will Need

You don't need specialist equipment for most of this. Here's what to gather before you start.

Tools and materials:

• Old toothbrush or small scrubbing brush
• Microfibre cloths or old towels
• Washing machine cleaner tablet or powder (brands like Calgon or Dr. Beckmann Machine Cleaner are widely available in supermarkets)
• White wine vinegar (optional - check your manual first)
• Bicarbonate of soda
• Washing-up liquid
• A small bowl or container for soaking the detergent drawer
• A flat-head screwdriver to access the filter on some models
• A shallow tray or old towel to catch water from the filter

Time estimate: Allow around 2 to 3 hours from start to finish. Most of that is waiting for wash cycles to run. The actual hands-on time is around 30 to 45 minutes, so it's a good job to start in the morning and let the machine do its work while you get on with other things.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Work through these steps in order. Each one targets a different source of the smell, and in our experience the combination of all of them is what makes the difference between masking an odour and actually getting rid of it for good.

Step 1: Clean the Detergent Drawer

Pull the drawer out completely. On most machines, you press a small release tab inside one of the compartments and it slides free. What you'll typically find is a thick coating of grey or black sludge - that's mouldy detergent residue mixed with limescale. Soak the drawer in warm water with a little washing-up liquid for 10 minutes, then scrub it with the toothbrush, paying close attention to the underside of the compartments and the roof of the cavity where the drawer sits. Rinse it thoroughly and leave it to air dry while you move on to the next step. Don't forget to scrub inside the empty drawer cavity too, particularly around the water jets at the top - these get clogged and are often overlooked.

Step 2: Clean the Door Seal

The rubber gasket around the door is where most of the smell originates in the majority of front-loading machines. It collects water, hair, lint, and detergent, and it sits damp between washes - which is exactly the environment mould thrives in. Pull back the folds of the seal and look inside. You'll likely find black or brown mould deposits and possibly hair or small items of clothing. Wipe it out with a damp cloth, then use the toothbrush with a little bicarbonate of soda paste or washing-up liquid to scrub the mould away. Dry it off with a clean cloth when you're done. If the mould is extensive or deeply embedded into the rubber, the seal may need replacing - we'll cover that later in the guide.

Step 3: Run a Hot Maintenance Wash

Most households in Abingdon and across Oxfordshire wash at 30 or 40 degrees, which is sensible for energy bills and fabric care. But washing at low temperatures regularly doesn't kill the bacteria and mould spores building up inside your machine. Running a hot maintenance wash at 60 or 90 degrees with no clothes in the drum dissolves residue, kills bacteria, and flushes the entire system through properly. Add a washing machine cleaner tablet or a cup of bicarbonate of soda directly into the drum drum, then select the hottest, longest cycle your machine offers. Hotpoint, LG, and Beko all have a dedicated drum clean or eco tub clean programme on newer models - use that if yours has one, as it's specifically designed for this purpose.

Step 4: Clean the Filter

The pump filter on a front-loader sits behind a small panel at the bottom front of the machine. It's the most commonly overlooked part of a washing machine, but a blocked or dirty filter is a very frequent cause of foul smells because it collects fluff, coins, hair grips, and stagnant water over time. Place your shallow tray or old towel underneath the panel before you open it - there will be water in there, sometimes quite a lot. Turn the filter cap slowly anticlockwise until water starts to trickle out, let it drain fully, then remove the filter completely. Clean it under the tap, scrub off any residue with the toothbrush, and check the cavity behind it for anything that shouldn't be there. Refit the filter firmly by hand, making sure it's properly seated to prevent leaks.

Step 5: Wipe Down the Drum Interior

Once the hot wash cycle has finished, open the door and wipe down the inside of the drum with a damp microfibre cloth. Pay particular attention to the back wall and the paddles - the plastic fins that run around the inside of the drum. These are often missed and can harbour deposits that contribute to the smell. Dry the drum with a clean cloth afterwards rather than leaving it wet.

Step 6: Run a Second Rinse Cycle

After a heavy clean, it's worth running a short second cycle - a rinse or quick wash on cold or 30 degrees with nothing in the machine - to flush out any remaining cleaning product residue. This is particularly important if you've used a strongly scented cleaner, as the fragrance can transfer to your next load of laundry in a way that some people find unpleasant. It takes 15 minutes and it's worth it.

Step 7: Leave the Door and Drawer Open Between Uses

Once the machine is clean, form the habit of leaving the door ajar and the detergent drawer pulled out slightly after every wash. This allows air to circulate inside the drum and prevents the damp conditions that cause mould to return. It sounds minor, but it's one of the most effective preventative measures there is. One of the most common follow-up calls our engineers receive from Abingdon residents is a machine that smells again within a few weeks of cleaning - and in the vast majority of cases, the door has been kept closed between washes, trapping moisture inside.

What to Do If This Does Not Fix It

If you've worked through every step and the smell is still there after the next few washes, the source is likely something that routine cleaning alone can't reach.

First, check whether the smell is coming from the machine itself or from the water supply. In parts of Oxfordshire where the water is harder, limescale builds up faster inside the drum, pump, and heating element. Heavy limescale deposits can trap bacteria even after a hot wash. A descaling product specifically formulated for washing machines, such as Calgon used monthly, can help keep this under control and is particularly worth considering in hard water areas.

A slow-draining or blocked standpipe can also cause stagnant water to sit in the machine between washes. If your machine is slow to empty or you notice water pooling inside the drum after a cycle finishes, the problem may be with the drain hose connection rather than the machine's internal components.

The Voltrade GoFIX diagnostic tool can help you work out whether the issue lies with the machine's drainage system, its heating element, or another component - and it'll give you a clear steer on whether this is something you can sort yourself or whether it needs a qualified engineer to look at it properly.

When to Stop and Call a Professional

Some problems look like cleaning issues but are actually mechanical faults. Call a professional appliance repair engineer if you notice any of the following.

• The smell is eggy or sulphurous rather than musty or sour. This can indicate a problem with the water inlet or a fault with the heating element.
• You find black mould deeply embedded in the door seal that scrubbing won't shift. A perished or badly moulded seal needs replacing rather than repeated cleaning. Continuing to scrub can tear the rubber and lead to leaks. Seal replacements for common models like the Bosch Serie 6, Samsung ecobubble, or LG F4 Series typically cost between 60 and 120 pounds for parts and labour, depending on the specific model and the engineer's call-out fee.
• The filter housing is cracked or leaking after you've refitted the filter correctly.
• The machine isn't draining properly and the blockage isn't in the accessible filter.
• The smell has returned repeatedly despite regular maintenance cleaning - this can point to a problem with the sump hose, a failed drum seal, or worn bearings that are allowing water to pool in places you can't reach.

In Abingdon and across the Oxfordshire area, a washing machine service call from a qualified appliance repair engineer typically costs between 60 and 100 pounds for the call-out, with parts charged separately if anything needs replacing. That's considerably less than the cost of a new machine - a mid-range replacement such as the Beko WTL94141W or Hotpoint NSWA845CWWUK currently starts at around 300 to 400 pounds, and that's before you factor in installation and disposing of the old appliance.

Questions About This Process

How often should I clean my washing machine to stop it smelling?

Running a hot maintenance wash once a month is a reasonable starting point for most households. If you wash frequently at low temperatures, have a large or active household, or live in a hard water area - which applies to many parts of Oxfordshire - every two to three weeks is more realistic. Clean the filter every three months and the detergent drawer monthly to stay properly on top of build-up before it becomes a problem.

Can I use white vinegar to clean my washing machine?

White vinegar is effective at breaking down limescale and detergent residue, and many people use it without any issues. However, some manufacturers including Bosch and Samsung advise against it because the acidity can degrade rubber door seals over prolonged use. Check your machine's manual before trying it. If there's any doubt, use a dedicated washing machine cleaner instead - it's formulated to clean thoroughly without risking damage to internal components.

Why does my washing machine smell worse in summer?

Warmer temperatures accelerate bacterial and mould growth inside the drum and seal, which is why many Abingdon residents notice the smell becomes more pronounced during the summer months. The fix is the same year round - regular hot maintenance washes, leaving the door open between uses, and not leaving wet laundry sitting in the drum once a cycle has finished. In warmer weather, try to transfer laundry to the dryer or washing line as soon as the programme ends.